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WineNews
Issue 584 - July 4th - 8th 2022 - Expressly created for 4.370 wine lovers,
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News
The best Italian wine cooperatives
The Valpolicella Negrar winery, in the heart of Veneto’s most important red wine territory; Terre del Barolo, an icon of quality cooperation in the Langhe; and Cantina Frentana, in the land of Abruzzo: these are the best Italian wine cooperatives (which account for more than half of Italy’s production, turnover and exports) according to the traditional ranking of the German magazine Weinwirtschaft (whose correspondent from Italy is Veronika Crecelius), which for years has lined up the best wine cooperatives. Ranking apart, as always, for South Tyrol: at the top stands the triptych Andriano, Terlano and Girlan.
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First Page
Liv-ex 1000, +0.8% in June. Ornellaia 2018 third in trade and average price growth: +9.5%
Fine wine prices continued to grow in June 2022, with the Liv-ex 1000, the index that brings together the seven regional Liv-ex indices and analyzes the trading activity of 600 wine merchants, marking +0.8%, the lowest growth since the beginning of the year, while the Liv-ex 100, the wine industry benchmark (which includes, for Italy, Bartolo Mascarello’s Barolo 2016, Comm. G.B. Burlotto’s Barolo Monvigliero 2016, Gaja’s Barbaresco 2018, Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Monfortino Riserva 2013 and 2014, Frescobaldi’s Masseto 2016 and 2016 and Ornellaia 2018, Poggio di Sotto’s Brunello di Montalcino 2016, Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia 2016, 2017 and 2018, Soldera Case Basse’s 100% Sangiovese 2016, Antinori’s Solaia 2018 and Tignanello 2016 and 2018), stands at +0.7%. The Liv-ex 50, which tracks trade in Premiers Grand Cru Classé, grows just 0.1%, in a very complex context anyway, amid fears of economic recession, stagflation and rising interest rates. Making strides is the Italy 100 (made up of the last 10 vintages on the market of Barolo Bartolo Mascarello, Barbaresco Gaja, Barolo Cascina Francia Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Monfortino Riserva Giacomo Conterno, Masseto, Ornellaia, Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido, Solaia, Soldera Case Basse 100% Sangiovese and Tignanello), up +1%. More broadly, the top 10 monthly performances include no less than three labels from Italy: Ornellaia 2018 (+9.5%, at a price of 1,755 pounds per case), the third most traded wine as of June 2022 and in third place for average price growth, behind Romanee-Conti 2017 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti (+20.1%), produced in just 627 cases, and Dom Pérignon 2010 (+14.7%), then Poggio di Sotto’s Brunello di Montalcino 2016 (+7.1%, £2,200) in seventh place and Masseto 2016 (+6.6%, £9,540) in eighth place. The best-performing index is Champagne 50 (+1.6% and +50.8% over the past 12 months), with Perrier Jouët Belle Epoque 2012, Dom Pérignon 2010, and Salon Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru 2006 marking growths between 13% and 19%. Both Burgundy 150 and Rest of the World 60 marked +1.3% growth, while Bordeaux Legends 40, which collects old vintages from the 1990s and 2000s, was the only index to close in negative territory (-0.7%).
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Sustainability in wine in Italy
As we have been saying for some time, sustainability, environmental, economic and social, is one of the pillars not only of production, but of the overall actions of wineries. To the point that at least 84% of them put in place sustainability practices, even if not always certified. This is definitely an important aspect for communicating to the consumer what is being put into practice. The most common type of certification is for food quality and safety (57% of companies). This is one piece of evidence that emerges from the research “Certified but poorly communicated sustainability: the turn needed for wine brands”, signed by Altis and Opera of the Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore (in more detail), which analyzed a sample made up of 70 top Italian wine companies.
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Focus
The light of Sicily captured by Vittorio Storaro at Cusumano’s
“I think that since light is visible energy, it is basically the concept of life. But light is never alone, it has a companion always close by, the shadow. The concept of the word “photography”, from the Greek photo (light) and grafia (writing), is what each of us must consider, in this type of relationship, because only duality between two concepts will find a certain type of answer”. These are the words with which Vittorio Storaro, one of the greatest cinematographers in the history of cinema, Oscar winner for “Apocalypse Now”, “Reds”, and “The Last Emperor”, commented on the light of Sicily, after portraying it, with a team of young directors, among the vineyards of Etna and San Giacomo in Butera of Cusumano, the Sicilian winery headed by brothers Diego and Alberto Cusumano. His photographic work is also the starting point for “Lightland”, an open call launched by “Perimetro”, directed to all photographers, who are invited to interpret the powerful energy of the island. Vittorio Storaro himself will preside over the jury of “Lightland”, and the selected images will be featured in an exhibition and fundraiser to benefit the Mario Negri Institute (a leader in biomedical research). “The powerful light of Sicily”, Diego Cusumano said, “is the core energy of this land. And, the wines produced here are its ideal expression”.
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Report
In Italy, 17 % of wineries have a wine club
Among the changes that are characterizing direct-to-consumer sales in the world of wine is that of a growing interest in wine clubs, as revealed by the “Wine Tourism and Direct-to-Consumer Sales Report 2022”, published by Divinea: according to data collected by the portal dedicated to wine tourism, 17.3% of wineries have a wine club while 75% of those who have not yet done so say they will implement one or are considering it (in more detail).
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Wine & Food
Chianti appeared in 2019 and now stars again in “Stranger Things”
Chianti once again stars in “Stranger Things”, the Netflix cult series, which revived the eighties and thrilled tens of millions of viewers around the world. In a scene in the ninth episode of the fourth season of “Stranger Things”, Jim Hopper (played by David Harbour), after weeks of hard imprisonment, says he dreams of good food, and then asks Joyce Byers (Winona Ryder), “should I have been dreaming about something else? Well, there’s wine”. “Wine is good” she replies. “I was thinking of a nice Cianti” replies Hopper, mistaking (again ...) the name of the famous wine. “Chianti” she corrects him. “Chianti, right”, concludes Jim Hopper. A quote that restores the iconicity of Chianti, already “starring” on the big screen in “The Silence of the Lambs” and in “007 From Russia with Love”.
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For the record
Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Aglianico in space
There will be a future in which in space, besides astronauts, farmers and wine producers will also go. As Franco Malerba, the first astronaut in Italian history, and Giorgio Saccoccia, president of the International Space Agency, stated (in more detail). Which, meanwhile, together with partners, including the Italian Sommelier Foundation, will send into orbit shoots of Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Aglianico, supplied by wineries symbolic of the territories, namely Gaja (Langhe), Biondi Santi (Montalcino) and Feudi di San Gregorio (Irpinia), which will also send their wines into space.
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