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Issue 597 - October 3rd - 7th 2022 - Expressly created for 4.393 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world |
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In an economic phase as complex as the one we are currently going through, value for money is increasingly important in the choices of consumers, who are guided, for example, by the “Top 100 Best Buys” 2022 by “Wine Enthusiast”, which lines up the 100 best wines under $15 on the shelf. With lots of Italy, starting with Zenato’s Bardolino Chiaretto 2021 (No. 15), followed by labels from Fiorini (32), Paltrinieri (34), Deltetto (35), Castello di Gabbiano (43), Tenuta Rapitalà (49), Produttori di Manduria (66), La Selva (69), Masottina (78), Mezzacorona (87), Santi (89) and Vigneti Zanatta (95). In first place was the California-based Highlands 41 2020 Black Granite Red. |
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The great drought that alarmed almost the entire “Italian vineyard” until the end of August, then a substantial and consistent recovery thanks to the rains, which now, in view of the conclusion of the 2022 harvest, seem even too insistent. For a positive vintage in quality, not too poor in quantity, and still well beyond expectations. This is the summary picture confirmed, to WineNews, by many leading producers in Italy (in more detail). Clemens Lageder, at the helm of Alois Lageder in Alto Adige, speaks of beautiful and healthy grapes in the cellar, waiting to judge musts and wines. While from Piedmont, and especially from the Langhe, Alberto Chiarlo (Michele Chiarlo) and Franco Alessio (Pio Cesare), tell of a harvest that was not too poor, and very good in quality, especially for Nebbiolo. A positive harvest year, especially in quality, also in the land of Prosecco, where in the Docg a -15% in volume is discounted, and hold on 2021 in the Doc, for Domenico Scimone, CEO of Carpenè Malvolti, while after overcoming a difficult summer, in Valpolicella, the focus all turned to the withering, says Alessandra Boscaini of Masi Agricola. Harvest beyond expectations for whites, Verdicchio in the lead, and surprising for reds, which are just finishing being picked, in Marche, according to Michele Bernetti (Umani Ronchi). As well as in Umbria, says Chiara Lungarotti (Lungarotti) from Torgiano, while there is still some wait for the ideal ripening of Sagrantino in Montefalco. Harvest almost closed in Tuscany as well, where the sentiment of Alessia Antinori (Marchesi Antinori) and Giovanni Folonari (Tenute Giovanni e Ambrogio Folonari) among Chianti Classico, Montalcino, Montepulciano, Bolgheri and Maremma is positive, as is Santiago Marone Cinzano (Col d’Orcia). Harvest still halfway through, but definitely positive, in Puglia, in the Castel del Monte area, emphasizes Sebastiano De Corato (Rivera), while it has yet to start, but with positive expectations, in Irpinia, according to Piero Mastroberardino. Harvest on the other hand, in the Islands, both in Sardinia, as told by Valentina Argiolas (Argiolas), and in Sicily, on Etna, say Antonio Rallo (Donnafugata) and Tasca d’Almerita, who smile at a harvest that is not generous in volume, but that makes everyone happy for quality. |
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A guide was needed, and perhaps still is, to guide the market and consumers, on a particular product. But it can also be a kind of “book of inquiry”, capable of stimulating reflection. Like, speaking of wine, for some time now, is “Slow Wine”, Slow Food’s wine guide, which will present its 2023 edition in Milan. And for a guide that, as its editor, Giancarlo Gariglio, tells WineNews, “judges not just the wines, but the wineries themselves, visiting them all”, issues such as climate change, sustainability, environmental and social, but also the future role of appellations and specifications, are central. The guide has “1,957 wineries reviewed, 58% of which are certified organic and biodynamic, with more than 700 award-winning wines, and 227 “Chiocciole” (in more detail), our highest recognition”.
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The Liv-ex Fine Wine 1000, i.e., the index that more broadly analyzes the performance of the secondary fine wine market, and which brings together the seven regional Liv-ex indices (Bordeaux 500, Bordeaux Legends 40, Burgundy 150, Champagne 50, Rhone 100, Italy 100 and Rest of the World 60), analyzing the trading activity of 600 wine merchants, closed September 2022 with a growth of 2.1%. Also doing well is the Liv-ex 100, the index that tracks the price trends of the 100 finest fine wines on the market, which shows a positive rebound of +1.9%, largely canceling out July’s small decline (-0.3%), the first since June 2020. More restrained growth in the Liv-ex 50: +1.5%. Closing in broadly positive territory was the Italy 100, which grew 2.4% in September 2022 and 9.1% since the beginning of the year, for a market share that returns to close to 10% of trade by value (and 11.8% since the beginning of the year). Fundamental to the Italy 100 is the contribution of Tuscan labels, which account for 57.7% of trade, with Super Tuscans leading the way. Among the top five best-performing labels in September 2022 there was also an Italian: Marchesi Antinori’s Tignanello 2018, whose price per case (of 12 bottles) rose +7.1% to £1,352. |
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The Procuratoria of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice for its contribution to the preservation of the values of the Venetian Civilization, and the “Great Wine Capitals Global Network” for its current fundamental contribution to the Wine Civilization, and for having contributed, together, to spread a message of culture in the world, generating solidarity, civil progress and peace: these are the winners of the Masi Prize No. 41, awarded with the “Internazionale Grosso D’Oro Veneziano Award”, which will be staged on October 14 in Valpolicella. |
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In times of guides, the “Tre Bicchieri” of the “Vini d’Italia” 2023 Guide by “Gambero Rosso” are coming out piecemeal. And with it, the “Special Awards”. Some are already official, like the one for “Winery of the Year”, which is Bertani, a piece of Veneto wine and Amarone history. Or like that for “Sustainable Viticulture”, which went to a true pioneer in this regard, such as Marco Caprai. Other awards, yet to be announced, are those for “Red Wine of the Year”, which as WineNews is able to anticipate, goes to Dievole’s 2019 Chianti Classico Petrignano. Or like the “Solidarity Awards” that goes to the “Wine of Gorgona” of the historic Frescobaldi. The guide, with all the special awards (in-depth) and the 455 “Tre Bicchieri”, will be presented on October 15 in Rome. |
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Fewer and fewer wineries in Italy, but more solid. Although, in terms of size, France “wins 5 to 1”. This is the Italian panorama photographed by the Observatory of Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv), which sees in 20 years the number of wineries in our country reduced by more than 500,000, although the area under vines has held (-11%, with -1% in the last decade) and the 255,000 wineries that remain (they were 791,000 in 2000) are now more structured, with an average area of hectares under vines growing by 174% (in more detail). |
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