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WineNews
Issue 617 - February 20th - 24th 2023 - Expressly created for 4.446 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world
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Renzo Rosso’s wine hub
In the beginning, that for wine was a passion, one more than the core business of Renzo Rosso, an entrepreneur who conquered the fashion and lifestyle world from Vicenza with the Diesel brand. In a short time, the new holding company dedicated to wine activities, “Brave Wine”, can already count three companies: Diesel Farm, in the hills of Marostica, where Renzo Rosso’s first wines were born; Benanti, a griffe from Etna of which Rosso acquired 40% a few months ago; and the latest addition, Barolo griffe Josetta Saffirio, brought together in a single company by her daughter Sara Vezza, who has also been producing Nebbiolo and Alta Langa since the 1990s (in more detail).
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Slow Wine Fair 2023: the future and role of good, clean and fair wine
“The aim of the Slow Wine Fair is to change the standards of how wines are bought and sold. We realize it's a very complicated mission, but only by working on consumer education and training those who market the bottles, can we hope to radically change the production system, favoring methods that preserve natural resources and increase soil fertility, abandoning synthetic chemistry. Furthermore, we want the role of defender of the landscape, promoter of culture and an ethical system of investments in the territory to be recognized in the figure of the winemaker”. Thus, Giancarlo Gariglio, international coordinator of the Slow Wine Coalition, introduces Slow Wine Fair 2023, the fair of good, clean and fair wine, in Bologna, February 26-28, with 750 wineries from around the world and many insights and focuses to follow. It begins with “The Future of Wine is Good, Clean and Fair”, which gives the title to the inaugural conference: a declaration of intent, inspired by the Slow Food Manifesto, with the goal of bringing together all the players in the supply chain to enact a wine revolution under the banner of environmental sustainability, landscape protection and social and cultural growth in the countryside. On February 27, the future of the Slow Wine Coalition, which has grown to involve producers and professionals from 37 countries around the world, will be the focus of the workshop “Slow Wine Coalition: let’s get active for good, clean and fair wine”. A talk on catering will follow the “Terroir and Slow Spirit Wine List Award”. Of note are the forums dedicated to glass and bottle, “The Wine Journey, from Vineyard to Bottle”, and the one on “How the Geography of Wine is Changing: Responses to the Climate Crisis”. Of a much more technical nature, on the other hand, is Federbio and Uiv’s panel discussion “Accidental and technically unavoidable contamination of plant protection products in organic farming”. On the last day, in Slow Wine Fair 2023, on stage the focus “Sana Tech” for the construction of more natural viticulture, and above all the conference on the major issues of wine communication and promotion: “Wine communication between CMO revision and health instances”.
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Wine, cooperation in the EU speaks Italian
Wine cooperatives produce more than half of Italy’s and Europe’s wine. A production and business model that, in addition to producing volumes, in recent years has pushed hard on experimentation and quality, and continues to be a presidium of territories. And which, with strength in numbers, can also play a leading role in important battles for the sector, ranging from the issue of nutritional labeling to the very hot topic of the relationship between wine and health, to those of EU reforms on packaging and the use of plant protection products. Leading the European wine cooperation will still be Luca Rigotti, wine sector coordinator of Alleanza Cooperative, and at the top of Mezzacorona, who has been reconfirmed as head of Copa-Cogeca’s Wine Working Group (his words in more detail).
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The climb of super premium Italian wines
World trade in still wines is marking time, with volume declines in the last year of around 5% (rising to 7% in the Italian market. ed.), but the premium consumption trend is increasing, starting precisely with Italian reds. According to the analysis of the Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv) Observatory on market trends over the past 12 years, made-in-Italy wine has in fact seen a fourfold increase in volume sales of still wines in the super-premium range (over 9 euros per bottle ex-cellar) over the period, with an average annual growth of 13%. The picture is even more significant when looking at value: from a niche, accounting for 6% of total exports in 2010, to an increasingly decisive asset in 2022, with the market share of super-premium wines coming to be worth 18%, or 863 million euros. At the expense, in particular, is the entry-level segment, which over the same period marks a decline in share from 19% to 6%. According to the Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv) analysis, for the first time, in 2022 exports of premium and super-premium still products (from 6 euros and up) surpassed those in the entry-level and popular range: in fact, the former occupy a market share of 52% (2.5 billion euros), compared with 48% (2.3 billion euros) for lower-value products.
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“The Other Tuscany” in the glass
Carmignano, Chianti Rufina, Colline Lucchesi, Cortona, Maremma Toscana, Montecucco, Orcia, Suvereto and Val di Cornia, Terre di Casole, Terre di Pisa, Valdarno di Sopra, and Igt Toscana: it is “The Other Tuscany” - an association led by Francesco Mazzei - that of the less famous appellations, but no less rich in beauty and charm, in the territories and in the goblets, that closed, in recent days in Florence, the “Week of the Tuscan Previews”. A wine kaleidoscope all to be discovered (in more detail our best tastings).
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“Mandraroads”, from Menfi to “Vinitaly” with Mandrarossa’s van with wine lovers on board
Take a minivan, 1,500 km to travel in four stages and ten regions of Italy: this is “Mandraroads”, the idea of the Sicilian winery Mandrarossa, which will take its wines, together with four lucky wine lovers, from Menfi to “Vinitaly 2023” in Verona (April 2-5). The journey on the road will leave on March 28 to go up north, visiting four cities, where events dedicated to Sicily and the wines of “Menfishire” will be organized: Messina, Salerno, Rome and Verona, are the stops that will mark the tour and from which will begin the journeys of the “Mandrambassadors”, selected in an open call launched on Mandrarossa’s digital channels, until March 12 to all social users with passions related to wine, travel and lifestyle. To participate, simply fill out the form on Mandrarossa’s website and send a short video. 
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For the record
The first street art and wine hotel
A collection of rooms dedicated to the excellence of made-in-Italy wine, from Barolo to Franciacorta, from Prosecco to the great Supertuscans and Brunello di Montalcino, in the first hotel in Europe entirely decorated by the world’s most famous exponents of Street Art: the Muraless Art Hotel, in Castel d’Azzano (Verona), through its 94 urban-style thematic rooms celebrates Italian genius in all its excellences, including music, cinema, food and wine, fashion and design. A true “museum” of urban art, curated by Chiara Canali, together with the Milanese gallery Deodato Arte.
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