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Issue 702 - October 7th - 11th 2024 - Expressly created for 4840 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world | |
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| | | Canelli, cradle of Moscato d’Asti, with its UNESCO World Heritage “Underground Cathedrals”, aims to enhance its unique treasure through the census and mapping of all the cellars and places of the “underground city.” A project that looks to the past to write the future, carried out by the “Canelli Ipogea” Committee and that turns the spotlight on the historical roots of the city, focusing on the census of its ancient cellars, authentic jewels. The aim is to rediscover, preserve and give new impetus to the wineries, making them protagonists of a cultural and economic renaissance of the city (in more detail). | |
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| | Italian wine and catering, are two symbols of Made in Italy. But they spent a 2023 with a different “sentiment”. It was certainly not a memorable year for wine, struggling with a slowing market and a declining production due to climatic reasons, but also consumption that is curbed, both due to prices and a health trend “driven” by young people (products with lower alcohol contents and alcohol free are on the rise) and a greater polarization between high quality and cheaper wine choices. On the other hand, there is the so-called “selective” catering, which continues its growth after the “dark years” of Covid, and where new formats are being born in a market that is still very fragmented, however, and where the process of concentration (chains) continues with the need for capital for development. And commercial catering also appears healthy, with the big players all growing in 2023. Elements highlighted by edition No. 4 of Pambianco’s “Wine & Food Summit”, organized in partnership with PwC, which offered a series of insights into strategies and new trends in the global market for the sector. Looking at Italian wine in particular, with a production value of 38.3 million hectoliters of which 21.4 are exports and a total domestic consumption of 21.8 million hectoliters, the top 10 Italian companies in the wine-trading segment by turnover (Cantine Riunite and Civ, which includes Giv - Gruppo Italiano Vini, Argea, Iwb, Cavit, Caviro, La Marca, Fratelli Martini, Mezzacorona, Collis, and Zonin 1821) had a turnover of 3.3 billion euros, up both on 2022 (+2%) and, to a greater extent, on 2021, when they were just over 3 billion. In the wine-premium segment, on the other hand, according to Pambianco’s classification, the top six Italian companies (Antinori, Santa Margherita, Terra Moretti, Frescobaldi, Gruppo Lunelli, and Masi Agricola) exceeded 1.1 billion euros (+1%) as turnover. In terms of what Pambianco calls selective catering, however, the global market is worth more than 1.2 billion euros in 2023. Italy takes 3 percent of the world total, and is fifth in the world and first in Europe. | |
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| | There are so many different characteristics that give value to a vineyard, such that establishing how much a single plot is actually worth is a difficult task. And while keeping within the framework of scissors between minimum and maximum values that in certain appellations see such differences as to mean everything and nothing, to update its broad estimates was once again Crea. According to which, at the top remain the Barolo vineyards, which would sprout values between 250,000 euros and 2 million euros per hectare (but with peaks of 4 million per hectare in cru such as Cannubi, ed.). Also on the podium, then, is Bolgheri, the protagonist of tumultuous growth in recent years, catching up with the Brunello di Montalcino vineyards: in both cases, the value of the vineyards starts at 250,000 euros per hectare, as in Barolo, but the ceiling is estimated at around 1 million euros.
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| | | If Italian wine exports have doubled in the last decade (7.7 billion euros in 2024), it has been thanks to the work of businesses around the world, including with the Ocm Vino funds, which, since its first application in 2010, has been confirmed as strategic, with an allocation of 100 million euros a year of EU funds (which co-finance the projects of businesses to a maximum of 50%), of which 30% are managed at the national level and 70% by the regions. And while the Ministry of Agriculture has finally published notices and rankings in “normal” times, strides have been made by both administrations and businesses in submitting accurate, feasible and sustainable projects. But rigidities of interpretation and application of rules, both in project submission and implementation and reporting, remain, requiring enormous bureaucracy. Modern companies, with more inclination to invest, manage to manage them, but medium-small wineries paradoxically begin to look at the tool with less conviction, as can be seen from the rankings of some regions, even those at the forefront of the wine scene, where some of the resources for promotion are not used or not requested, as Silvana Ballotta, at the head of Business Strategies, explains to WineNews in more detail. | |
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| | | A project that, like few others, unites art and great wine, and that today is enriched with an additional piece: the Chiarlo family, among the most important realities of Piedmont’s wine industry, launches the new artistic path “Cannubi Path”, created by Maestro Ugo Nespolo and dedicated to Michele Chiarlo, founder of the winery. The new path is inspired by the Art Park La Court, the largest open-air museum among the vineyards, and represents an important opportunity to make Cannubi an even more shared and sharable heritage. | |
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| | Italian wine also has its “patriarchs”: the old vines, which are 70 to over 200 years old, and which still populate the territories where wine has been produced since ancient times, and whose historical, cultural and genetic value is priceless. An interest on the wave of which was born the “Old Vine Conference”, a worldwide movement to safeguard historic vines and spread their culture and values for the future of the wine world, as co-founder Leo Austen explains, and which, in recent days, brought together, Italian wineries with monumental vines at Tenuta Sette Ponti, in Valdarno in Tuscany (WineNews was also there). And where is the Empire Vineyard planted in 1935 by Amedeo di Savoia Duca d’Aosta to celebrate the conquest of Abyssinia, and now owned by the Moretti Cuseri family. | |
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| | “The agricultural issue has marked the life of the Republic, representing one of the litmus tests of the ability of the new order to make the rights listed in our fundamental Charter effective”. Words from the President of the Republic, Sergio Mattarella, speaking, in Rome, for the 80th anniversary of Coldiretti (which, for the occasion, launched the digital signature collection for the obligation of the label of origin at the European level), and where there was also no shortage of references to current events (in more detail).
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