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WineNews
Issue 438 - September 16th - 20th 2019 - Expressly created for 11.897 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world
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News
Primum Familiae Vini in charity auction
Vega Sicilia Único 1953, Graham’s Vintage Port 1963, Familia Torres Mas La Plana 1971, Weingut Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese 1976, Famille Hugel Riesling Sélection de Grains Nobles 1976, Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 1977, Joseph Drouhin Musigny Grand Cru 1978, Marchesi Antinori Tignanello 1982, Champagne Pol Roger Winston Churchill 1986, Château Mouton Rothschild 1986, Château Haut-Brion Rouge 1989 and Château de Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques Perrin 1989: here the 12 bottles from the companies of Primum Familiae Vini that will be under the hammer of Sotheby’s, for a charity auction on October 16 in New York.
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First Page
James Suckling: from the Renaissance of Italian wine to the future on Asian markets
Perhaps nothing, like the escalation on the scale of the scores of a world wine guru like James Suckling, can better explain the Renaissance experienced by Italian wine in the last forty years, because if until then “for an Italian wine reaching 90 points was news, today is the news”, as told WineNews the historical signature of the wine critics, who, in Florence, in the Villa di Maiano, overlooking the city, called together the 400 best wine producers in Italy for the exclusive event “Magnum Party”. “It is incredible how many winemakers work well in the vineyard - Suckling continues - and this is the most important thing, but also in the cellar, eliminating any defect. It’s the right time to buy and drink great Italian wines, the average level is now very high”. But if high quality is now a consolidated reality, China is still a long way off. Italian wine would need a modern Marco Polo who would introduce the richness of Italian wine to the whole of Asia. “I like the idea of becoming the Marco Polo of Italian wine, I work a lot in Mainland China, where I spend long periods while living based in Hong Kong. There is no one, in terms of wine media, who does our work in China, ours is a great investment in the Chinese market. After all - continues Suckling - it is interesting for me how the best Italian wines are now able to arouse not only the curiosity but the interest of the major distributors of Bordeaux wines on the eastern markets, from China to Japan, from Russia to emerging countries such as Kazakhstan, where it is difficult for Italian wines to enter. It’s a sign that Italy is on its way”. It is important to know how to communicate the peculiarities and uniqueness of Italian wine, because Italy has its main features in the many native vines and the many expressions of the territory, but on closer inspection, in the world, and therefore also on the Asian market, the most successful wines are the Super Tuscans, or bottles of Bordeaux blend, if you exclude the samples of Barolo, Brunello and Chianti Classico. “Sometimes people don't understand what is in front of them - explains the critic - but Asian consumers are curious, they want to learn, so I think there could be a great future for Italian wines in Asia”.
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Chinese locomotive restarts
A few timid signals that must be grasped, to restart and recover lost ground in the past year, are coming from wine exports to China, a complex market and still challenging for Italy, which in the first six months of 2019 seems to have gained some ground. As the Italian statistics ISTAT data revealed, processed by Ice in Beijing, in the first half of 2019, wine shipments reached 63.5 million euros, up 4.86% over the same period in 2018. Bottled wines are stable and still represent the largest majority share, at 49.76 million euros (+ 0.18%). The biggest surprise in China are sparkling wines, which got over 10 million euros (+42.45%). Is the negative spiral finally over? It’s rather hard to say, but the feeling is back positive in the Far East.
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Focus
Rumors: Biondi Santi expands its borders in Montalcino
The “cradle” of Brunello di Montalcino would be looking around to expand its boundaries in the land where it has created one of the most famous wines in the world: the Greppo Biondi Santi Estate, where Brunello was born in the nineteenth century, since 2017 owned by the Epi group of the French Descours family, and led by the managing director Giampiero Bertolini, a winery with a legendary history, still kept today by the Biondi Santi family, with Jacopo and Tancredi Biondi Santi, it would be looking around, to add more hectares of Brunello vineyards to the 25 hectares already owned by the estate, in one of the most prestigious areas of Italy. There are already 6 hectares in the sights, with the new vineyards just a few steps away from those under the current ownership of the estate, in an operation that is already partly implemented and will soon be fully defined. The aim is to increase the production a little while maintaining the same rigor in quality, going from an average of 80,000 bottles per year, to a potential around 110,000 bottles. According to rumors in an exceptional tasting, with great vintages of Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Biondi Santi in the glass, such as 1975, 1983, 1995, 2006 and 2010.
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Report
Ornellaia, 312,000 dollars for art
When modern patronage meets the passion for great wine: the online auction of the large formats of Ornellaia Vendemmia d’Artista 2016, “La Tensione”, has raised $312,000, with the bottles signed by the art of Shirin Neshat awarded online by Sotheby’s, divided into 11 lots, capable of collecting a large sum, which has been entirely donated to the Solomon R Foundation. The project is part of the Guggenheim’s “Mind’s Eye” program, which helps blind and visually impaired people to experience art.
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Wine & Food
Bertani Cru: from research, a new expression of Valpolicella
Research takes first place, in order to best express the symbolic grape of Valplicella, the Corvina, “freeing” it from the cage of drying and Amarone, which has given so much to the territory, but which cannot and must not be the only enological expression of a historical company like Bertani, which has decided to focus on the company’s cru, in a logic that, for once, leaves behind the marketing in favor of the wine culture. This is how the “Bertani Cru” were born: two wines from two vineyards of Tenuta Novare, the Valpolicella Classico “Le Miniere” and the Valpolicella Classico Superiore “Ognisanti”. “We wanted to capture the best expression of Corvina, and we could only do so by producing Valpolicella – explains to WineNews Emilio Pedron, gd of the Bertani Domains group- and after these two first labels, intended for catering, more will arrive ...”.
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For the record
Hktdc and Veronafiere, agreement until 2021
Veronafiere consolidates its presence in Asia with the Hong Kong Trade Development Council: the partnership between the two authorities has been extended to 2021, and through Vinitaly, Italy’s presence at the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair is strengthened, covering a market where global wine imports are worth 1.37 billion euros, with still significant margins for growth for Italy.
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Caprai Weekly 2019
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