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WineNews
Issue 616 - February 13th - 17th 2023 - Expressly created for 4.446 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world
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Sassicaia 2019 crowned by critics
Tenuta San Guido’s 2019 Sassicaia, Falesco’s 2019 Montiano (Cotarella Family), Lungarotti’s 2018 Torgiano Rosso Riserva Rubesco Vigna Monticchio: this is the podium of Italian red wines with the best scores according to the ranking of “Gentleman”, which every year compiles the top 100 from the intersection of the six most important Italian wine guides, and the 20 with the highest scores by adding to the Italian votes those of international critics - Wine Spectator, Robert Parker Wine Advocate (Monica Larner from Italy), Vinous and James Suckling - which confirmed at the top the iconic wine of Bolgheri, among the desires of collectors and investors from all over the world.
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First Page
Chianti Classico, 1 billion euro district. From July 1, 2023, “Uga” will arrive on the label
A district economic value that, with wine as the pivot around which oil, quality agriculture, restaurants, hospitality and more revolve, can be estimated at around 1 billion euros; the Gran Selezione and Riserva growing and, together, are worth a little less than half of production and more than half of turnover; the “Uga”, additional geographic units (San Casciano, Montefioralle, Panzano, San Donato in Poggio, Castellina, Vagliagli, Greve, Lamole, Radda, Gaiole and Castelnuovo Berardenga), which, as of July 1, will finally be on the label, on the Gran Selezione: here is the present and immediate future of Chianti Classico, the queen wine appellation of Tuscany, with 7,000 hectares of vineyards and an average annual production of between 35 and 38 million bottles that go to 160 countries around the world, the USA, Italy and Canada in the lead, the protagonist of the “Chianti Classico Collection” 2023. Showcase of the new vintages of a territory “that is in great health, growing on the markets, in volume and value, and also seeing a steady increase in average wine prices, and that looks to the future with optimism, with great anticipation for the Uga, which will arrive on the label from July 1, since the amendment to the specification has passed in the National Wine Committee and only the signing of the ministerial decree is awaited”, said, to WineNews, Giovanni Manetti, president of the Chianti Classico Consortium, which brings together 482 members, of which 345 bottlers. The numbers, after all, are comforting, because 2022 closed with a balance of bottles sold that marks +6% over the average of the previous three years. But it is important to emphasize that, above all, the overall value of the denomination has increased, with total sales rising sharply, which, in 2022, registered +17% over the previous year and even +46% over 2020. For the bottled product, the trend toward growth in the weight - in volumes sold and in value - of the “premium” types of Chianti Classico, Riserva and Gran Selezione is confirmed. In 2022, the two types jointly accounted for 45% of production and 56% of sales. With only Gran Selezione, the qualitative apex, of the pyramid, worth just 5% of volumes, but as much as 13% of value.
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Tuscany, the strength of a brand
What is the value of the Tuscan brand? “The explanation is very clear, the Italian bottled water, Acqua Panna (S.Pellegrino Group, ed.), increased sales +12%, after replacing the very strong “Made in Italy” brand with the Tuscan brand on its label. We must think about what it is worth when it is combined with wine, which in turn is linked to the historical, cultural, and landscape marvels of our Region that attract millions of tourists from all over the world”, said, from “PrimAnteprima 2023”, Eugenio Giani, president of the Tuscan Region, demonstrating a strength, that of Tuscan wine, confirmed by Ismea’s numbers. For wine “made in Tuscany” 2022 will be a record year, at least from the point of view of receipts referable to the export of PDOs: estimates speak of more than 690 million euros (+7%), even in the face of a decline in terms of volume (-3%), in line with other national PDOs.
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Nobile di Montepulciano, on the market since the Middle Ages
Today, 7 out of 10 bottles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, - the first appellation to be awarded the Equalitas sustainability certification - are sento all over the world (7.1 million bottles went on the market in 2022, +6% over 2021), with a production value of 65 million euros, and a total value, between assets and allied industries, that is close to 1 billion euros (in more detail). But wine from the territory was already a market protagonist in the Middle Ages. As evidenced by a rare merchant contract dated Oct. 17, 1350, preserved in the State Archives of Florence, found thanks to research sponsored by the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, led by Andrea Rossi and directed by Paolo Solini. It is the notarial record of a company marketing and exporting wine produced in the vineyards of the noble Del Pecora family of Montepulciano. The parchment, presented at “Anteprima Nobile di Montepulciano 2023”, testifies, as historian Repetti says in his famous Dictionary (Florence, 1839), that the “exquisite wine of Montepulciano, ... has been sent abroad since very remote times”, and was written a few years after the drafting of the Statutes of Montepulciano in 1337, which regulated the production, sale and taxation of the wine production for which the town was already known at that time.
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The tasting of Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Vernaccia di San Gimignano shows itself to be healthy, recovering on the markets what it had left on the ground with the pandemic. A total of 36,352.28 hectoliters were produced in the 2022 vintage, with just over 4,600,000 bottles produced and certified in the same year, for a turnover of around 13 million euros: this is the picture of a healthy and stable appellation, which presented the new vintages soon to be released on the market during the week of “Anteprima di Toscana” 2023 (WineNews tastings in more detail).
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Global consumption, costs, EU policies: Morellino and Chianti face the challenges of 2023
2023 was supposed to be the year of the ultimate renaissance, for the global economy and for wine. Instead, once the pandemic crisis was over, the world soon fell into another, even worse spiral: the war in Ukraine. That led to booming gas and commodity costs that dragged inflation to the highest levels in 40 years. At the expense, of consumption, including that of still wines, which is coming from a long-standing global decline in consumption. Here are themes and challenges on the table for the territories, starting with Chianti and Morellino di Scansano, analyzed by presidents Giovanni Busi and Bernardo Guicciardini Calamai together with the “Anteprime di Toscana”. In the glasses, the 2020, 2021 and 2022 vintages: ready-made wines and important gradations, the consequences of increasingly hot and dry seasons are being felt in the two Tuscan appellations (in more detail).
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For the record
Italian wine, in the first 11 months of 2022 exports to 7.2 billion
The path is set, and the record Italian wine export, which is expected to reach 8 billion euros in 2022, is getting closer. In the first 11 months of 2022, in fact, wine shipments touched 7.27 billion euros (+10.6% over the same period in 2021). Thus the Istat data for November 2022, analyzed by WineNews, from which a picture emerges that confirms the slow decline in shipment growth that went through last year. All the main Italian wine markets are growing (in more detail).
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