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WineNews
Issue 633 - June 12th - 16th 2023 - Expressly created for 4.546 wine lovers,
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News
Cyril Brun is Ferrari’s new chef de cave
The international “market” for chefs de cave lights up, with Italian sparkling wine brands able to secure real top players. After the “coup” scored by Bellavista, which in April 2022 formalized the arrival in Franciacorta of super consultant Richard Geoffroy, historic former chef de cave of Champagne legend Dom Perignon, strongly desired by patron Vittorio Moretti and CEO Massimo Tuzzi, it is the turn of Ferrari, a symbol of Trentodoc, led by the Lunelli family, which has chosen Cyril Brun, chef de cave of Charles Heidsieck until the end of April, to take up the very reach legacy of Ruben Larentis (in more detail).
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55% of Italians drink wine, which increasingly appeals to women, but less to young people
The audience of Italian wine consumers is growing, with women leading the way, but only those aged 45 and up. More and more wine consumers, and more and more moderate: in the last 15 years in Italy the number of occasional wine consumers has grown by 35% (+4.4 million), and, in parallel, daily consumption has decreased by 22%. The face of Italy’s 29.4 million wine consumers (55% of the population) is increasingly defined, according to the Observatory of the Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv), which compiled the Istat update on alcohol consumers. The profile that emerges is that of an audience driven by women (+12% vs. -2% of males), who do not abandon the “national” alcoholic beverage even if a very different approach is consolidated than in the past. This is a trend that is less reflected by broadening the range to the relationship with other alcohols, such as beer and aperitifs. Returning to wine, which in the period under consideration (2008-2022) increased its audience by 4%, among daily consumers (12 million Italians) the over-65 age group resists, while strong contractions are shown by young people (25-34 years old), at -38%, and even more so by 35-44 year olds (-48%), with major declines (-26%) for 45-54 year olds. The trend is reversed when considering occasional consumers (+35%), and particularly the older age groups: over 45, in fact, the increase is 53%, the equivalent of more than 4 million additional consumers. Overall, Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv) Observatory elaborations reveal, in 2022 daily wine consumers uncorked 461 million fewer bottles than in 2008, while occasional consumers increased the volumes purchased by an equivalent of 344 million bottles. Lombardy (16.7% of the Italian total), Lazio (9.8%), Campania, Veneto and Emilia-Romagna are the main regions in terms of the number of wine consumers. A ranking that changes if we look at the incidence on the regional population: Emilia-Romagna jumps to first place (62% consumes wine), followed by Valle d’Aosta (61%) and, tied, Veneto, Umbria and Tuscany at 60%, out of a national average of 55%. Looking at the history of the last 11 years (2011-2022), the trend of a general decline in daily consumers to the benefit of occasional drinkers is confirmed.
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Veneto, “Best of Wine Tourism”
From Casa Sartori 1898 in the Architecture and Landscape category, to Farina for the Art and Culture category; from Cantine Giacomo Montresor for the Innovative Experiences in Wine Tourism category to Le Carezze for the Sustainable Practices category; from Valentina Cubi for the Hospitality category, to Osteria Domini Veneti for the Catering category, to Strada del Vino Valpolicella for the Wine Tourism Services category: these are the 7 winners of the “Best of Wine Tourism” competition, representing Veneto’s excellence in wine, food and hospitality, vying for the “Global Best of Wine Tourism Award”, along with nominees from the other Great Wine Capitals, an international network with Verona as the only Italian wine tourism area. Among the awardees, the international winner will be selected at the annual conference in Lausanne (October 22-26).
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First quarter 2023: Italian wine shipments at +3.8%
The first quarter of 2023 marks the full recovery of Italian wine exports, with +3.8% growth in value to €1.77 billion, the latest Istat data, analyzed by WineNews, reveal. With 489 million liters, volumes also remain stable (+0.1%), kept in balance essentially by bulk wines (+13.4%), which counterbalance the decline in bottled (-2.4%) and sparkling wines (-3.2%): for both - it is important to emphasize - the trend in value is nonetheless positive, with bottled wines marking +2.8%, at 1.2 billion euros in turnover, and sparkling wines soaring at +7.3% to 459 million euros. The trends that characterized the first two months of the year are confirmed in the different markets: thus, after the first quarter of 2023, Italian wine imports in the U.S. (+10.7% to 446 million euros) and Germany (+5.6% to 278.7 million euros) continue to run, as well as in France and Russia, while the difficulties of Canada, Japan, China and, to a lesser extent, Denmark remain. In addition, although still behind on the same period in 2022, Great Britain recovers the gap, with an excellent monthly performance (all data in more detail).
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The “Spumante d’Abruzzo Doc Trabocco”
A land of reds, whites and rosés, one of the novelties for the Abruzzo wine region is the success of sparkling wines made from native grapes, to which producers are devoting great attention and investment, on the wave of the ever-rising consumption trend for the type, in Italy and worldwide. And which the Consorzio Vini d’Abruzzo has decided to ride by giving birth to the collective brand “Spumante d’Abruzzo Doc Trabocco”, named after the ancient fishing machine typical of the Costa dei Trabocchi, a beauty-symbol of the Region known throughout the world.
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“Decanter Wine Awards” 2023: Italy triumphs in record-breaking anniversary No. 20
Damilano’s Barolo LeCinqueVigne 2019, Fattoria Villa Saletta’s 980 AD 2018, Mastrojanni’s Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto 2018, Mecori’s Etna Rosso Duo 2021, Paolo Manzone’s Barolo Meriame 2019, Ruffino’s Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Romitorio Di Santedame 2019 and Vigneti Villabella’s Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Fracastoro 2012: here are the best of Italian wine, or the 7 “Best in Show” at the “Decanter Wine Awards” 2023 signed by the Uk magazine “Decanter”, which, in anniversary edition no. 20, record-breaking for wines competing (18,250 from 57 countries), sees the triumph of Italy, at the top of the platinum medal standings (28), with a total of 2,780 medals (with 88 gold, 955 silver and 1,703 bronze), Tuscany “queen” and Alto Adige, Piedmont and Veneto in great qualitative growth.
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For the record
In Monferrato, storytelling starts from the vineyard
Telling wines and wineries to visitors starting from an unusual angle, the geological characteristics of the soil where the vineyards are located: first of its kind in Italy, this is the storytelling project of the Consorzio dei Vini Colline del Monferrato Casalese, which involves the installation of information panels with all the details on the composition and history of the various plots, carried out with the scientific input of geologist Alfredo Frixa as a step following the mapping of the areas of Monferrato Casalese by “wine cartographer” Alessandro Masnaghetti.
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