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Issue 656 - November 20th - 24th 2023 - Expressly created for 4633 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world | |
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| | | From wine stocks at +9.1% as of September 30, 2023 over the same month 2022 (at 42.8 million hectoliters), to a percentage drop, as of October 31, 2023 (over the same month 2022), of -5.8 %, but with higher absolute values over last month, as there are 43.8 million hectoliters in stock (+2.5 %), and with data that, given the time in which they are recorded, still do not take into account, if only partially, this year’s harvest. These, at least, are the numbers from Icqrf’s latest Cantina Italia Report, whose data cover at least 95% of the wine and must held in Italy. Overall, then, there is always a whole vintage in Italian wineries stocked … | |
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| | Italian wine imports to the USA are decreasing, at least in value, that is, -8.1% over the first 8 months of 2023, compared to the same period in 2022. And, according to data related to bottling, and assigning quality labels (source AVITO, Association of Tuscan Wines with PDO and PGI) all of the areas producing the top Tuscan reds have registered a minus sign over the first 10 months of 2023, including Brunello di Montalcino (-6%). On the other hand, the 2018 vintage is almost sold out, and requests for 2019, which will be going on sale starting January 2024, are already quite high, according to the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium. Therefore, the 2019 vintage coming out now, and that many have been looking forward to, has a special meaning. From WineNews’ tastings of the wines present at Benvenuto Brunello 2023 (the best signed by Giuseppe Gorelli, Giodo, Fuligni, Gianni Brunelli, Franco Pacenti, Canalicchio di Sopra, Albatreti, Fattoi, Elia Palazzesi, Collemattoni, Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona, Casanova di Neri, Castello Romitorio, Banfi, Capanna, Caparzo, Castiglion del Bosco, Patrizia Cencioni, Pietroso and Poggio Antico, descriptions in depth) emerges that the solar year was at times warm, rich and solid, but once again, unfortunately, we can see the signs of ongoing climate change. The result, then, is widespread good quality, and excellent wines, which, however, continue to not occupy a very large space. Considering, instead, the most immediate critical organoleptic issues, there is a noticeable alcoholic strength in the wines on the nose and mouth, alongside a certain “evolutionary style”, which in some cases could penalize the overall balance of the wines, making them over ready. Positive notes are found in managing the tannic grip, which are well centered in general, plus the expressiveness of the fruit is almost always pulpy and tasty. The difference between the various wines is becoming more and more accentuated. Furthermore, on the territorial side, since distance is getting more and more widespread, it has begun to show the differences between wines produced in the north or south of the denomination, while the differences in the company’s stylistic approach are also becoming more notable, creating, in some cases, surprises (good or bad).
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| | In the project of clonal selection and recovery of Sicily’s ancient vines, 131 new alleged clones of the different vine varieties now being approved have been identified. This was announced by the DOC Sicilia Consortium, committed to the action of protecting the biodiversity generated by the more than 3,000 years of history of viticulture in Sicily. An extraordinary step forward for the Consortium President Antonio Rallo, of a journey that started in 2003 from the Sicily Region with the Universities of Palermo and Milan and the Experimental Institute for Plant Pathology of Rome, which in 2018 led to the registration of new varieties in the National Register of Vine Varieties. The 2023 results, explains Rosario Di Lorenzo, president of the Italian Academy of Vine and Wine, identify 73 “candidate clones” for Nero D’Avola, 29 for Grillo and 26 for Lucido awaiting evaluation. | |
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| | | If the top brand of the “Liv-Ex Power 100” is Domaine Leflaive, there are 13 Italian labels on the list. Starting with Gaja, the first Italian brand in the ranking, at No. 7 (with a significant climb, compared to position No. 38, in 2022), and the only one in the “Top 10”. Following for Italy, there is the Barolo brand Giuseppe Rinaldi in position No.15 (it was at No. 85 in 2022), while it rises to number 20 Antinori’s Tignanello (No. 49 in 2022). Giacomo Conterno is at No. 27, (from No. 32, in 2022), while Ornellaia, of the Frescobaldi Group, is in position No. 34 (from No. 80 in 2022), ahead of Biondi Santi, cradle of Brunello di Montalcino and now owned by the EPI Group of the Descours Family, at No. 35, boasting an extraordinary leap from position No. 134 in 2022. Bruno Giacosa holds position No. 44 (from No. 60 in 2022), while Langhe, Roagna is at No. 46 (jumping from 158 in 2022). Scrolling further through the list of Italian brands in the “Top 100”, Tenuta San Guido is in position No. 57 (compared to No. 30 in 2022), followed by Vietti at No. 62, from (rising from 117 in 2022), and then Masseto, again by Frescobaldi at No. 73 (compared to No. 40 in 2022). Montevertine is at No. 81, rising from position No. 135 in 2020. Finally, the last of the Italian brands, the icon of Valpolicella, namely Giuseppe Quintarelli is in position No. 89 (compared to No. 84 in 2022).
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| | | The “Best Sparkling Wine” is the Trentodoc Extra Brut Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore 2012 by Ferrari Fratelli Lunelli; the “Best White Wine” the Ornellaia Bianco Toscana 2020 by Ornellaia of the Frescobaldi Group; the “Best Red Wine” the Barbaresco Sorì Tildin 2020 by Gaja; the “Best Rosé Wine: Etna Rosato 2022 by Russo Girolamo”, the “Best Sweet or Meditation Wine” the Vin San Giusto, Toscana Bianco Passito 2015 by San Giusto a Rentennano: they are great classics the five “Best Tastings” of the “Guida Oro I Vini di Veronelli” 2024. | |
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| | Like every year-end, the big international wine rankings keep coming. And now it’s the turn of “The Enthusiast 100” 2023, the American magazine’s wine of the year ranking (whose tasting signatures from Italy are Jeff Porter and Danielle Callegari). A ranking that, if it sees at No. 1 overall Duckhorn’s 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Monitor Ledge Vineyard, from Napa Valley, counts 16 Italian labels, mainly from Langhe, with lots of Barolo, a few sparkling wine gems between Franciacorta and Conegliano, and excursions to Valtellina, Emilia Romagna and Tuscany. First of the Italians, at No. 2 in the ranking, is a great classic such as Ratti’s Barolo Serradenari 2019 (the other Italians in the ranking in more detail). | |
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| | From Ca’ del Bosco to Uberti in Franciacorta to Cesarini Sforza, Ferrari and Maso Martis for Trentodoc: these are the multi-award winners of Italian sparkling wine, the wineries that have been awarded the most “Five Spheres”, three each, in “Sparkle 2024”, edition No. 22 of the guide dedicated to the best Italian dry sparkling wines published by the magazine “Cucina & Vini”. 91 labels awarded with the maximum score, of which 32 from Lombardy (28 Franciacorta), 22 from Trentino (all Trento Doc), and 17 from Veneto (all Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Docg). | |
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