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Issue 434 - August 19th - August 23th 2019 - Expressly created for 11.897 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world |
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There is nothing like a glass of wine to relive an important event. This is the case of one of the most popular couples of the star system, the one formed by the former champion of the Manchester United David Beckham and his wife Victoria: on holiday in Italy, their great passion for wines took them to Tuscany, first to Bargino, to the Antinori family winery, and then to Castello Della Sala, in Orvieto. Together with their friend Renzo Cotarella, MD of Marchesi Antinori, they tasted some old vintages of Cervaro, one of the most famous whites: the vintages of the years of birth of the four children. |
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Production, producer and provenance: these are the “3 P’s” that make a bottle a “collector’s” wine. As the British magazine “Decanter” explains the number of high-level companies in a given territory is limited, as are their productions, which become rare as the vintage gets older: the reason for the success of the labels of Burgundy is in the numbers, very small, even if compared to the top producers of Bordeaux, which in volume are closer to the great labels of the Belpaese, such as Masseto, Sassicaia, Solaia, Ornellaia, but also Brunello Biondi Santi or Soldera Case Basse in Montalcino, or the Barolo of Giuseppe Mascarello and Bruno Giacosa or the cru of Angelo Gaja. Reputation is a more nuanced concept, because many producers have built their own in centuries, others have been able to do the same, with good communication strategies, in a few years. The origin is fundamental, because even the best wine in the world, if it has been preserved in the basement of an apartment in the city, loses much of its appeal and of its quality. The desirability of a wine also passes through the denomination of origin, remaining on the example of Burgundy, to the different quotations of Musigny and Mâcon, or, in the nearest Tuscany, to the distance that separates, in prices and reputation, Brunello di Montalcino and Nobile di Montepulciano, separated geographically by a few tens of kilometers. Then, the vintage, because the race to buy, in the most celebrated harvests by international critics, is under everyone’s eyes: the 2010 vintage, for Brunello di Montalcino, won scores and palates. Finally, the limited editions, which make a wine rare, if not unavailable: they are a fitting example of the author’s labels of Chateau Mouton Rothschild, signed over the years by the greatest artists, such us Dalì, Mirò, Chagall, Picasso and Andy Warhol, but also the Artist Harvest of Ornellaia, which declines every year through the vision of a painter or a sculptor, last Shirin Neshat, an Iranian artist who interpreted “The Tension” of the Ornellaia 2016. |
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Viticulture, in order to face the challenges of the present and the future, must look to the past. The applied science is sometimes short-sighted and incapable of protecting the knowledge of the past generations because the most beautiful, long-lived and quality vineyards have been developed by farmers, a category that no longer exists. To WineNews, the thought of Alberto Antonini, consultant oenologist, but also producer, in the four corners of the oenological world, with a past among the most important brands of Italian wine, from Antinori to Frescobaldi, and consultations in major wine territories, from Castello di Bossi to Cantine Settesoli and Dievole. “In the world, all the most beautiful, oldest and highest quality vineyards have been developed by the farmers”. |
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Two distant territories and culturally, such as Veneto and Puglia, two different wines, but with many elements in common, such as Amarone and Primitivo, two prominent figures, one of the viticulture of Valpolicella, Sandro Boscaini, the other of Italian television and of Manduria wine, Bruno Vespa, in the middle of Riccardo Cotarella, one of the most famous winemakers in Italy and president Assoenologi: from the big bang of these energies, “Terregiunte - Vino d’Italia” was born, unveiled “Al Druscié”, the wine bar of Masi Agricola in Cortina d’Ampezzo, with the “blessing” of the two Presidents of the Region, Michele Emiliano (Puglia) and Luca Zaia (Veneto). A unique project, created, as Bruno Vespa reminds WineNews, “from the idea of combining two wines from two very different regions, which have so many affinities, and when I spoke with Riccardo Cotarella we thought of Sandro Boscaini”, who speaks of “a cultural operation, which restores the sense of Italian wine, unrelated to the concept of denominations”. For Cotarella, “director” in the cellar, “a fantastic encounter, difficult to replicate, from which a new wine has been created, with a personality that goes beyond Amarone and Primitivo”. |
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The world of wine, and not only, salutes a great protagonist of the twentieth century: Lapo Mazzei died on his estate in Fonterutoli, at the age of 94, among the great exponents of the Florentine aristocracy linked to agriculture and to wine. A life that has gone through recent history in many different roles: as a volunteer, he participated in the Liberation of Italy, and after graduating in Agriculture he led the Castle of Fonterutoli, becoming, in 1974, president of the Chianti Classico Consortium.
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Wine-Searcher dedicates an ad hoc ranking to the Italian labels, the “Most Expensive Italian Wine” which, in first place, puts the Barolo Riserva Monfortino di Giacomo Conterno, online, on average, at 1,083 euros per bottle, followed by Masseto (678 euros) and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Case Basse di Gianfranco Soldera (627 euros). Behind, the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva by Biondi Santi (491 euros), at position n. 4, followed by the Barolo Label of Artist of Barolo Mascarello (426 euros), at position n. 5, then the Testamatta Color by Bibi Graetz (409 euros) at no. 6., at position n. 7 here is the Vin Santo of Montepulciano Oculus of Pernice of Avignonesi (406 euros). Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin of Cappellano (394 euros), at no. 8, then, Soì San Lorenzo di Gaja (387 euros), at position n. 9, and the Barolo Riserva Villero di Vietti (378 euros) at n.10. |
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The Sublimotion in Ibiza is the most expensive restaurant in the world: the bill, for a dinner, starts from $ 1,850. On the podium also the Masa in New York, at $595, and the legendary Ultraviolet in Shanghai, where the guests of chef Paul Pairet spend $570. The “Most Expensive Restaurants in the World” 2019, signed by the portal “The Street”, where there is the Osteria Francescana of Massimo Bottura at no. 21. |
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