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Issue 444 - October 28th - November 1st 2019 - Expressly created for 11.897 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world |
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From the football fields of the world in search of goals to the woods and wineries of the Langhe, Monferrato and Asti to hunt for white truffles and great wines: Cristiano Ronaldo's alternative Sunday bounces off social networks, passing from “trifolau” for a day, with sticks and dogs in tow, immortalized together with friends and his partner Georgina (in the picture on the Instagram profile of the former companion at the time of Sporting and now friend and partner of Cristiano Ronaldo, Miguel Paixao) on a tour that has not left out the great wine, with a visit to the historic winery of Barbaresco, Marchesi di Gresy … |
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After years of almost undisputed leadership on the US market, which accounts for over a quarter of Italian wine shipments, Italy is experiencing a period of fogging in these early months of 2019, growing at a much slower rate than its competitors, especially in France. There is no need to worry, but it is important to reflect which “space” Italian wine occupies. First of all, the geographical one, still limited to the most consolidated squares, such as New York, and then the one on the shelf, where the Belpaese is still linked to the central role of the most famous denominations and territories, with the smallest and emerging ones, which would have the capacity to break through, which are still struggling. From the stage in Seattle, in the State of Washington, which closes the U.S. Tour of Simply Italian Great Wines signed by IEM, we talked about it with Gioia Morena Gatti, head of Agrifood and Wine of Ice in New York, who does not deny some difficulties. “There is still a lot to do, because the variety of our wine heritage is not yet known to most American consumers, especially if we consider Pennsylvania, Colorado, the State of Washington, which we are exploring with training activities and promotional events”. With the aim of creating new possibilities even for less visible designations, always remembering that, as Marina Nedic, head of Iem, reminds us, “every state in the USA is different from the other, and the American province in this sense should be guarded, with the joint efforts of companies and institutions. The American is a curious and wealthy consumer, and when he looks at Europe he is struck by Italian wine, capable of expressing all the historical and cultural richness of Italy through the diversity of its wines. In the background, remain the duties that, for Riccardo Ricci Curbastro, head of Federdoc, “are the tip of the iceberg of a series of disputes between the U.S. and Europe. We have to start looking again at the United States as a mission land, it is not enough to stop in New York, it becomes more interesting and fun to go and sell in Kansas City, telling our stories and our diversity”. |
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Duties as an opportunity for growth: this is the analysis of ExportUsa, a consulting society that helps to enter the American market, according to which, it increases in import duties will result in a drop in exports for Italy of 150 million dollars of cheese and liquor, while it will generate an increase in Italian exports for 320 million dollars of wine and oil, with a net growth of Italian exports for 170 million dollars per year. Considering the situation of Italian wine, for example, ExportUsa experts say: “in 2018 wine exports to America from France, Germany and Spain reached $1.2 billion. Italian wine sales in America will now increase due to a substitution effect due to the increase in consumer prices on the American wine market of other countries”. |
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The great classics of Italian wine aging, from Barolo to Barbaresco, from Brunello di Montalcino to Nobile di Montepulciano, from Supertuscan to Amarone della Valpolicella, but also red expressions such as Chianti Rufina, Gattinara and Etna, and white territories that for years have been working to break away from the concept of “vintage wine”, and marry that of longevity, such as Soave and Verdicchio: there is all this in the “Top 100 Cellar Selection” 2019 of the USA magazine “Wine Enthusiast”, which every year indicates the wines that come out, and that according to the critics of the magazine will give the best of them in 10-15 years. And so, if at no. 1 absolute there is the Porto Quinta do Seixto 2017 of Sandeman, first of the 17 Italians, on the lowest step of the podium, is Barbaresco 2016 by Castello di Neive, followed, in the “top 10”, by Soave Classico Calvarino 2016 by Pieropan, at no. 6, and Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2013 by Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona. Along the ranking, there are wines from wineries such as Selvapiana, La Ca’ Nova, Ettore Germano Brezza, Contucci, Passopisciaro, Gini, Paolo Scavino, Isole e Olena, Travaglini, Bucci, Gaja, Monte del Frà and Marchesi Antinori. |
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Italy is a real open-air museum, where among the remains dating back to ancient Rome of that heritage that are the excavations of Pompeii, the harvest returns among the rows of the vineyard, recovered and cared for, since 1994, by the brand of the Campanian wine Mastroberardino. A botanical project applied to archaeologyche which has taken care of the preliminary research, planting and cultivation of vineyards, which now covers 15 vineyard areas. |
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The green economy has been, in these difficult years, the best response to the crisis: the drive for quality and beauty, social cohesion, natural allies of the efficient use of energy and matter, innovation, high-tech have prompted 300,000 companies to invest in this direction in 2019, with the number of green jobs in Italy now exceeding the threshold of 3.1 million, 13.4% of total employment. Here is the tenth GreenItaly Report of the Fondazione Symbola, led by Ermete Realacci, who says to WineNews “the most effective metaphor of what is the crossroads, very Italian, between green economy and link with the territories, which is the history of wine, which first experienced the passage in which quality, beauty, innovation have taken the place of quantity, also reducing the environmental impact”. |
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For Italian wine, based on a system of denominations, the belonging of a label to a PDO or PGI is an added value. Some of the greatest Italian wines, such as Gaja, Sassicaia or Masseto, strong brands that to go beyond the territory, recognizable to the point of providing almost “shadow” to the brand of their denominations. This is one of the reflections of Thomas Hyland, wine writer of “Forbes”.
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