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WineNews
Issue 531 - June 28th - July 2nd 2021 - Expressly created for 4.233 wine lovers,
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News
Matthew Fioretti’s investment in Gattinara
Investing in Gattinara, means investing in a piece of Piedmont’s wine history. One of the big names of the Langhe, Giacomo Conterno (cradle winery of Barolo Monfortino), did it in 2018 by acquiring the winery that is the symbol of the territory, Nervi. It is now done by the Italian-American entrepreneur Matthew Fioretti, former director and partner of La Cerbaiona, griffe of Brunello di Montalcino, who has brought together under his single ownership 800 square meters of underground cellars in the center of Gattinara, and also acquired vineyards located in excellent exposure, in the Osso area. In order to contribute to the relaunching of a highly suitable area for winemaking.
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First Page
Tasca d’Almerita, Salcheto, Alois Lageder and the “Robert Parker Green Emblem”
Sustainability is a central and crosscutting issue, and it is now ever-present in the wine world. Preserving territories is part of the DNA of ethical wineries and is also important because the sensitivity of consumers around the world to this universal theme is growing rapidly. Furthermore, it is an increasingly valued topic to those who communicate and judge wines. And there is no exception for what is considered the most authoritative source of wine critics of the world, that is “Robert Parker Wine Advocate”, the wine magazine founded by Robert Parker (whose correspondent in Italy is Monica Larner). Today, the magazine is under the Michelin Group umbrella, and just as the world’s most important gastronomic guide introduced “green stars” to reward the best sustainable cooking experiences, it similarly introduced the “Robert Parker Green Emblem”, a “recognition given to selected wineries that have shown extraordinary determination in the search for ecological practices”. The first 24 wineries from all over the world that received this emblem, include also three excellent and pioneer Italian wine companies, and all three have been working on sustainable viticulture for many years: Alois Lageder, in Alto Adige, Salcheto, in the territory of Nobile di Montepulciano, and Tasca d’Almerita, in Sicily. For all of them, the producers explain to WineNews, it is a prize for a path that never ends, that of sustainability. “To qualify for this award, a winery may or may not already be certified organic and/or biodynamic. Beyond and above certification, the wine producer must be an extraordinary sustainability advocate who looks towards long-term environmental protection and biodiversity. Receiving the “Robert Parker Green Emblem” signifies that careful consideration has been given to rare and exceptional merits. Each year, “Robert Parker Wine Advocate” reviewers nominate new candidates from their regions who they deem worthy of the “Robert Parker Green Emblem”. Once a company has been recognized and honored, all its wines will carry and exhibit the “Robert Parker Green Emblem” in the future”. Changes in the opposite direction, however, may lead to the revocation of the recognition, explained a note from the “Robert Parker Wine Advocate”. 
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CAP 2023-2027: many news for wine
The future Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) will come into force on January 1, 2023, but the text of the agreement will be finalized in the coming weeks and will have to be submitted, in autumn, to the vote of the Agri Commission, the European Parliament and the Council, as recalled by Paolo De Castro, S&D coordinator at the Agriculture Commission of the European Parliament. For the wine sector, there are important regulatory changes, starting with the system of planting authorizations, extended until 2045. It will be possible to use hybrid vine varieties for the production of all wines with geographical indication. Total dealcoholization is authorized for table wines, while PDO and PGI wines will only be able to be partially dealcoholized (all the points of the new CAP in the in-depth article).
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Focus
Between wine and wine tourism, the message of Ornellaia
If today Bolgheri, despite being one of the youngest denominations of Italian wine, is the best positioned, in terms of value, on the markets of the world (as told by a survey commissioned by the Consortium of Bolgheri and Bolgheri Sassicaia), it is because here we have always invested following the polar star of excellence. The focus was first concentrated on the vineyard and the wine, of course. But now, more and more, the big brands of Bolgheri wine look to high-level hospitality. As is being done, among others, by the Frescobaldi group, chaired by Lamberto Frescobaldi, which has under its aegis two of the most important realities of the territory and of the national and international panorama, such as Ornellaia and Masseto. And just Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, during the visit of the President of Tuscany Region Eugenio Giani, where the further investments of Frescobaldi group on the estate were presented, especially on the hospitality front, was the privileged theater for some reflections on the subject “Ornellaia is reacting with tenacity to fight the pandemic. I believe that wines of excellence can contribute to the restart of the Italian wine sector. We need to invest in the good combined with the beauty” commented Lamberto Frescobaldi (the comments in the in-depth article).
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Report
Grandi Marchi, making room for young people
A “Gruppo Giovani” to bring together the new generations at the helm of the wineries and plan for the future, led by Federica Boffa (at the helm of the historical Pio Cesare winery in Alba): this is one of the innovations of the Istituto Grandi Marchi, which brings together 18 of the most prestigious wineries in Italy. It confirmed Piero Mastroberardino as president, together with Alberto Tasca, head of Tasca d’Almerita in Sicily, and Michele Bernetti, head of Umani Ronchi in the Marche region.
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Wine & Food
Ideas of territory: the “Pinot Bianco in Collio Business Network” is born in Friuli
Not competitors on the market, but allies to enhance a distinctive feature of the production of excellence from Friuli Venezia Giulia, that is the ability of an international grape variety like Pinot Bianco to express the peculiarities of a unique land like Collio. From this vision was born the “Business Network Pinot Bianco in Collio”, which brings together seven historical and leading names of the wine of Friuli such as Castello di Spessa, Livon, Russiz Superiore, Schiopetto, Toros, Venica & Venica and Pascolo, among whose rows, in Ruttars in Dolegna del Collio, was presented the project. In the words of one of the patriarchs of Italian wine, Marco Felluga, more than 90 years of history of Friuli wine, who, since time immemorial, hoped for this union: “today’s day is very special, it is like a consecration”.
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For the record
The best wine lists of Italy according to WS
Excellent cuisine, impeccable hospitality in the dining room, but also a great wine list. Fundamental ingredients for the success of a restaurant. Since 1981, the US magazine “Wine Spectator” has been awarding the best wine lists in the world. As of today, there are 97 temples for lovers of good wine all over the world. Of which 6 are in Italy, all confirmed. From Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence to La Pergola at Rome Cavalieri, from La Ciau del Tornavento in Tresio to Ristorante Cracco in Milan, from Bottega del Vino in Verona to Poeta Contadino in Alberobello.
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