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WineNews
Issue 502 - December 7th - 11th 2020 - Expressly created for 11.897 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world
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News
Pinchiorri and Baghera Wines’ auction
Giorgio Pinchiorri’s large-format collection from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1985, sold for 1.8 million francs, or more than 1.6 million euros, and included: 12 Jeroboam and 12 Mathusalem from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, as well as the unreleased number 1 of the “Millesime 1985”, in the different crus of the Burgundy legends. With Giorgio Pinchiorri’s collection, divided into 14 lots, which was by far the top star of an auction that in total collected 3.2 million euros, and 100% of the lots were sold, in the “Kingdoms” auction, presented by the Swiss auction house, Baghera Wines.
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First Page
LIV-EX: Italy is the top star of the fine wine market even in this challenging year 2020
Italy is undeniably the brightest star on the secondary fine wine market, thanks to champions such as Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Monfortino, and the 2013 vintage that has moved by far the most value in the world. Plus, it tops the Top 10 that also includes San Guido Estate’s Sassicaia 2017 and Antinori’s Tiganello 2016. Italy can, therefore, boast 4 wines on the top 10 ranking in growth, such as Sassicaia 2013, Tignanello 2013 and 2016 and Solaia 2013, also by Antinori. All of this translates into numbers: the Italy 100 index - made from the last 10 physical vintages (2007-2016) of the great Super Tuscans, namely Sassicaia, Masseto, Ornellaia and the Antinori family’s superb “triptych” formed by Solaia, Tignanello and Guado al Tasso, and also by several vintages of Sorì San Lorenzo, Barbaresco and Sperss by Gaja, and Barolo Monfortino Riserva by Giacomo Conterno - since the beginning of 2020 it has grown by 6.7%, much more than the average (with the Liv-Ex 1000 at +1.6%). Italy has doubled its market share, which went from 8.8% in 2019 to 15.3%. These are the facts that the Liv-Ex report, “The Fine Wine Market in 20202, the reference platform for the secondary market of the world’s fine wines, revealed. The market has grown notwithstanding this very problematic year, 2020. Furthermore, it also registered a record in overall values moved, which reached £83 million, an increase of £33 million on 2019. In a year that has consecrated the Belpaese, which has had so much attention also thanks to the great judgments of the critics on Barolo 2016 and Brunello di Montalcino 2015. The absolute stars? The Barolo Monfortino 2013 is definitely the wine that has moved the highest values in 2020, at a current price of £8.196 for a case of 12 bottles, in a top 10 ranking that also sees Sassicaia 2017 at number 6 (£1.556 per case) and Antinori’s 2016 Tignanello (£974 per case). Italy has done even better in the ranking of price growth. The best Italian wine ever is Sassicaia 2013 by Tenuta San Guido, which, between December 2019 and November 2020, saw its cash price increase +30.7% (1.960 pounds per case). Antinori, though, has three wines: Solaia 2013 at +24.1% (1.998 pounds), and two vintages of Tignanello, 2013 (+21.8%, at 950 pounds) and 2016 (+19.2%, at 970 pounds).
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Whites of Italy protagonists in NY
The restaurant industry, even in the USA is on its knees because of Covid. According to The National Restaurant Association, 110,000 restaurants and eateries have already closed in 2020 (17% of the total), and another 10,000 are at risk of doing so in the coming weeks. And yet, the USA, not new to sudden braking and equally impetuous acceleration, will be able to restart, and will still be fundamental for Italian wine. Also thanks to restaurants, where labels from the Belpaese are well positioned, as recounted in the MiBd Analytics survey on the origin of white wine references in restaurants in New York, the iconic city of the USA in the world. If at the top there are California, Loire and Bourgogne, Italy, in the top 15, places Veneto, in 56% of wine lists, together with Piedmont, Trentino Alto Adige, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Sicily and Campania.
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Wine Spectator, Brunello and Barolo in the “Top 10”
The Spanish Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2010 of Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta is the no.1 wine in the world, according to the “Top 100 Wines of 2020” by Wine Spectator. The verdict was announced today by the American magazine (a result, in history, achieved four times by Italy, by Antinori's Solaia 1997 in 2000, by Ornellaia 1998 in 2001, by Casanova di Neri’s Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova 2001 in 2006 and by Tenuta San Guido's Sassicaia 2015 in 2018, ed). This completes a “Top 10” which, as expected, also saw Italy as a protagonist with two of its great standard bearers, Brunello di Montalcino 2015, with the Lucère of Roberto Giannelli’s San Filippo winery, at no. 3, Massolino’s Barolo 2016 at no. 7, with the famous American magazine that not only awarded the excellence of the two wineries, but also reaffirmed once again the leading role of the two territories, Montalcino and Langhe, and the exceptionality of two vintages, 2015 for the great Tuscan red and 2016 for the Piedmontese one, already awarded by critics all over the world. Among the top 10 wines of the world, also those of Aubert, Macayamas, Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Kistler, Bodega Piedra Negra, Beaux Frères and Bollinger. On Monday, the complete “Top 100”: in 2019, 21 Italians selected (Chianti Classico above all).
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Report
Goodbye Pablito, champion and wine lover
Paolo Rossi has died in Rome, aged 64. Intergenerational symbol of the Belpaese of soccer, Italian hero of Spain 1982, has always cradled a passion for wine, which he produced at Poggio Cennina. In 2019, at Vinitaly, he had presented a line dedicated to his exploits on the pitch: “Pablito - Another Great Match”, declining in the bottle the great oenological territories of the Belpaese, from Brunello di Montalcino. “The most beautiful toast? The one on the pitch when we won the World Cup: there was a bottle of Ferrari...”, he told WineNews.
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Ovse: end of the year, 67 million bottles of sparkling wine will be uncorked (-12% on 2019)
In 2020, which was also one of the hardest years ever for wine, sparkling wines, as the year comes to a close, are holding out. There will be 66-67 million bottles uncorked in the holidays, down on the record 75-76 million of 2019 (-12%), but not to a catastrophic extent. Although the bill of course, is salty: only in the last 30 days of the year sparkling wines will record a loss of 60 million euros in production, and 150 in consumption, with Italians who will not give up the toast at home, perhaps focusing on cheaper products than in the past, but with the lack, which will be felt strongly, of all the toasts in restaurants, bars and clubs stopped by the anti Covid measures. This is the picture that emerges from the survey of Ovse-Ceves, the Observatory Center for Economic Studies Special Wines, led by Giampietro Comolli.
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For the record
“Cantina Italia”, 49.7 million hectoliters of wine in stock
In Italian cellars, on November 30, 2020, there were 49.7 million hectoliters in stock (+2.5% on 2019). Numbers to which must also be added 13.1 million hectoliters of new wine still in fermentation (+2.8%) and 11.6 million hectoliters of must (-5.8%). This is the situation described in the report “Cantina Italia” by Icqrf, based on data from the Telematic Register of Wine. 51% of wine held is Dop, 26,8% is Igp, while varietal wine makes up just 1,5% of the total and 20,7% is represented by generic wines. 
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