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Issue 487 - August 24th - 28th 2020 - Expressly created for 11.897 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world |
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Inspired by the golden age of the Renaissance to restart Italy of excellence. Starting from Florence, which was its cradle, to get to what, between link with the beauty of the territory and history, artistic patronage and the high enoic craftsmanship, can be considered a “Renaissance palace 2. 0”: Dolce&Gabbana, the Italian haute couture label, has chosen the Antinori winery in Chianti Classico, in Bargino, for the closing day (no entrance without invitation) of “Il Rinascimento e la Rinascita”, an event promoted with Pitti Immagine, which, between 2 and 4 September, will gather 38 great names in contemporary Florentine craftsmanship. |
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The tumultuous growth of Italian wines in the fine wine market is now a fact. But in this small and precious niche, there are new dynamics emerging, as explained by the latest analysis of Liv-Ex. If in the last 10 years the value of the secondary market has grown by 9% per year, Italian wine has achieved a +28.5% year on year, and on August 25, the value of buying and selling great wines of Italy traded on Liv-Ex has exceeded the total of the entire 2019. In this scenario, it emerges that, for the first time since the beginning of 2020, it was the Piedmontese wines, Barolo and Barbaresco in the lead, that moved more value, compared to the great Supertuscans, which, instead, dominated the scene, on the Italian front, from 2016 to 2019. This, underlines Liv-Ex, does not mean that the great Bolgheresi (and not only) are not doing well, so much so that if the Italy 100, an index dedicated to Italy, has been growing by 2.3% since the beginning of the year and by 4.2% in 12 months, the Supertuscans have achieved a growth of 4.2% in 2020, and by 8.8% in a whole year. But the growth of the Piedmontese has been impressive, led by Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Monfortino, a legendary label that is the one that has moved the most value in absolute terms, while the Barbaresco 2016 by Produttori del Barbaresco is the one most exchanged in volume. But the growth in the appeal of Italian wines is confirmed by many top names. Along with Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico also registered a 300% growth in the first 7 months of 2020, according to the Lwin code. Meanwhile, reminds again Liv-Ex, September will be an important moment for the fine wine market, because a world benchmark like “La Place de Bordeaux”, after the great Bordeaux wines, will see the releases (and quotations) of some of the most sought-after great wines from around the world that have won a place in the prestigious wine merchant distribution system of Bordeaux. A system that also sees two sacred monsters of Italian wine, Masseto, and Solaia della Marchesi Antinori, the subject of a specific analysis of Liv-Ex. In terms of market dynamism, made 100 the index of each of the two wines in July 2017, in three years, Solaia has achieved a growth of 24.9%, while Masseto remained substantially flat on its levels, at +1.1%. |
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The situation is still difficult for the world catering industry, but some positive signs are coming. According to the “barometer” launched in the lockdown by the Michelin Guide, it emerges that by August 18, 83% of the starred restaurants in the world had reopened (2,627 out of 3,172). An important signal, also for high quality wine, which has a fundamental channel in the world “fine dining”. A percentage, that of starred reopenings worldwide, close to that which Italy had already reached around the middle of July, with 87% of the top restaurants in the Belpaese having reopened their doors (a figure similar to France, already 84% at the time). Good data in Europe (73% of restaurants reopened in the UK, 80% in Spain), and in Asia, where in several countries over 90%, more difficult the situation in the U.S., where only 14% of the restaurants reopened their doors. |
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With the thousand worries that come from the markets of the world, most of the wine producers of Italy breathe a little optimism looking at the vineyard. And if it is too early to get out of balance in quantitative and qualitative forecasts, as recalled in recent days by the president of Assoenologi Riccardo Cotarella, who will present his detailed forecasts on September 3 at the Ministry of Agriculture, together with Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv) and Ismea, the first bunches harvested of white and early varieties in many territories of the Belpaese, and the monitoring of the vineyards by companies and oenologists predict, albeit with caution, a harvest without too many problems. As told, in WineNews, by some of the most important oenologist consultants in the Belpaese, by Carlo Ferrini, who reports excellent conditions in Trentino and Sicily, while trying to manage a bit of drought between Marche, Abruzzo and some areas of Tuscany, to Giuseppe Caviola, who tells of excellent feelings in Piedmont, Sardinia and Sicily, in the hope of a bit of rain in some area of central Italy, to Donato Lanti, who emphasizes how, in any case, the last month will be decisive, especially for wines of great aging, and how important it is to manage climate change, so as not to over-ripen the grapes. |
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The future belongs to young people. Also in wine. And among the most influential in the U.S., according to the “40 Under 40 Tastemaker 2020” by “Wine Enthusiast”, there is also the Italian Vittorio Marzotto, Senior Director of Fine Wines of Santa Margherita Usa, the operating arm in the States of the wine group, among the most important in Italy, founded by the Marzotto family, which has under its umbrella realities such as Ca’ del Bosco in Franciacorta, Kettmeir in Alto Adige and Lamole di Lamole in Chianti Classico. |
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On the one hand, the most important wine auction house in the United States, Zachy’s, on the other hand, a symbol of Italian and worldwide catering, Enoteca Pinchiorri, Michelin-starred table in the heart of Renaissance Florence, in the middle, a sale of fine wine destined to mark an epochal turning point. Baptized “Enoteca Pinchiorri: The Legendary Cellar”, is the auction with which Zachy’s, on September 12, in London, makes its European debut, with a catalog of 864 lots, for a total of 2,500 bottles and a value, in terms of auction base, of 2 million euros. The bottles of the wine cellar that Giorgio Pinchiorri has built in more than half a century, where more than 60,000 bottles from the largest wine territories in the world, including old vintages and very precious brands, which have always completed and enhanced Annie Feolde's cuisine. |
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After the good data of the first months of the year only in parts penalized by Covid, the decline in exports of Italian wine in the world affected by the pandemic has begun to manifest itself: in the first 5 months of 2020, shipments stopped at 2.4 billion euros, -4% over the same period 2019, according to Istat data analyzed by WineNews. Among the main markets, the USA and Germany continue to hold, both down by -0.5%, for a value, respectively, of 629 and 429 million euros. It is much worse in the United Kingdom, which is down by -11.8% for 253 million euros. |
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