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WineNews
Issue 600 - October 24th - 28th 2022 - Expressly created for 4.402 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world
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News
Wine, world export value grows 
Less wine is being traded around the world, but at higher values. With sparkling wines continuing their portentous growth, which has been going on for years now. According to customs data from different countries analyzed by the Spanish Wine Market Observatory (OeMv), world exports, between June 2021 and June 2022, decreased by -0.9% in volume, amounting to 10,803 million liters, compared to a value of 36,258 million euros, an all-time record, with a 10.9% growth, and an average price that grew by 11.8%, rising from 3 to 3.36 euros per liter. With sparkling wines up 14% in volume, to 1,123 million liters, and 27.8% in value, to 8,257 million euros.
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First Page
Antinori in Chianti Classico is the most beautiful winery in the world
Italy is the most beautiful country in the world. For its cities of art, and for its landscapes, often designed by vineyards. And now, also for its wineries. Because the monumental and much-visited Antinori winery in Chianti Classico, an architectural masterpiece signed by Marco Casamonti for the Antinori family, which leads one of the most important names in world wine, is No. 1 in the “World’s Best Vineyards 2022”, the ranking of the world’s most beautiful wineries, revealed in Mendoza, Argentina. An absolute triumph for Italy and one of its wine symbols, set in the Chianti Classico area that is one of the most intact and beautiful wine territories in the world. “It is a result that gratifies us greatly - comments to WineNews the CEO of Antinori, Renzo Cotarella - an award not only for Antinori, but for the whole of Italy and for Chianti Classico, and it is a further tangible sign, of the ability of the Antinori family to look long term and beyond time. And it is a recognition for a generation, that of Piero Antinori, who leaves another pearl to the territory, a sign of foresight, attention, and a great deal of patience, just as his ancestors left Palazzo Antinori in Florence”. “Having followed its construction from the earliest stages, the winery holds a special place in my heart”, comments Albiera Antinori, president of Marchesi Antinori, “and represents an important recognition for all Italian wine tourism”. But Antinori’s triumph, for Italy, is also accompanied by the winery that has climbed the most positions since the 2021 edition, namely Ferrari Trento, leader of Trentodoc, of the Lunelli family, which jumped from No. 61 to No. 11. With a top 50 also featuring another leading Italian winery, namely the Sicilian Donnafugata, led by Antonio and Jose Rallo, a new entry at position No. 45. Thus, there are 9 wineries in all in the 2022 “Top 100” (in more detail), with Antinori, Ferrari and Donnafugata joining the previously announced Ceretto and Gaja, icons of Piedmontese wine, who have risen to positions No. 62 and No. 65, respectively, compared to the 2021 results, and, with new entries of such griffes as Villa Sandi, at No. 70, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe at No. 74, Marchesi di Barolo at No. 90 and Tenuta San Leonardo at No. 97.
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Canada, a passion for bubbles (and Prosecco)
Demand for sparkling wines in Canada has grown by 50% in the last 5 years and is set to expand by a further 30% in the next 5. A long wave, the one analyzed by Wine Intelligence, ridden by Prosecco, capable of above-average performance, so much so that if in 2016 only one out of every five bottles of sparkling uncorked in Canada was Prosecco, today bubbles from Veneto and Friuli account for more than 30% of consumption in the category. Much of this demand is linked to the growing popularity of sparkling wines, so much so that the number of consumers has jumped +21% in the past three years, mainly thanks to Millennials. In purely numerical terms, since 2019 Canada has recorded one million new sparkling consumers, and today 42% of all sparkling lovers are among the 25-39 age group.
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Roberto Conterno, from Monfortino to a robot tractor
From the highest-rated Italian wine of all, Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Monfortino, capable of fetching stellar prices at auctions and in the world’s most exclusive wine shops and restaurants, to a high-tech robotic tractor, conceived and developed entirely “homemade”, the step is anything but short. Yet that is what producer Roberto Conterno, who heads the celebrated winery in Monforte d’Alba, has been able to accomplish a project that, born concretely in the midst of Covid, in 2020, is ready to see the light of day, namely the “RC3075” robotic tractor, designed, in mechanics and software, by Conterno & Bona, a startup of Roberto Conterno himself and engineer Federico Bona, and built (and ready to be put on the market) by “Black Shire”. A “tool carrier”, Roberto Conterno, “Mister Monfortino”, sums it up to WineNews, because if today the tractor, fully robotic and therefore autonomous, is already ready for cutting grass in the vineyard and administering treatments, with other specially adapted equipment it will be able to carry out all those repetitive and mechanical tasks that are needed to run the vineyard. “It’s a project I believe in and have invested a lot in”, explains Conterno, who recounts its genesis (in more detail).
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Report
The “Parchment of Dievole”
In a parchment dated 1090, in a document drawn up by the notary Bellandus, the abbot of the Monastery of St. Eugene leases landed property in Dievole, houses, lands, vineyards, woods and streams, in exchange for two capons, three loaves of bread and six Lucchese coins a year. This is the document discovered in the State Archives of Siena, new evidence on wine production in Tuscany, and the first trace of Dievole, already considered among the oldest realities of Chianti Classico, now owned by Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards, and found to confirm the millennial link with the territory.
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Wine & Food
250 years of Masi, a piece of Amarone history
250 years of company history is enough to be able to take some sort of analysis of the work done so far. Which, in two and a half centuries, cannot have been limited to simply producing wine, but has taken responsibility for a territory and a tradition to be preserved as much as possible and promoted throughout the world. This awareness is evident in the words of all three generations currently active at Masi, when they recount all that has accompanied an important viticultural journey for Valpolicella and the whole of Italy, celebrated in recent days at the winery. A long story, told in the glass (and in-depth), by 17 vintages of Amarone, distributed between 1958 and 2016, among 4 different labels.
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For the record
Cusumano and Storaro, in the name of light
The patronage of one of the most prestigious realities of Sicilian wine like Cusumano, the artistic authority of Vittorio Storaro, master of photography and three-time Oscar winner, and charity for one of the most important research institutions in Italy: these are the ingredients of the “Lightland” project, which has already raised €8,200 for the Mario Negri Institute for Pharmacological Research. A photographic project with shots inspired by the light from the vineyards of the Sicilian estates, some of which went to auction, some of which can be purchased online, to contribute to research.
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