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Issue 394 - November 11th - November 18th - Expressly created for 11.897 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world |
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A 880 grams truffle, six magnums of Barolo and Barbaresco - a 3-liters of Barolo Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2004 Cavallotto, a 5-litre of Barbaresco Roncaglie 2010 Poderi Colla, a 3-liters of Barolo Villero 2011 Oddero, a 1.5 liters Barbaresco Vanotu 2007 Pelissero, a 3 liters Barbaresco Rabaja 1995 Giuseppe Cortese and a 3 liters Barolo Monfalletto 1985 Cordero di Montezemolo - and a dinner at the 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana restaurant: here is the top lot of the edition n. 19 of the World Auction for the Tartufo Bianco d’Alba, awarded by an entrepreneur, in the only Italian three Michelin stars across the border of chef Umberto Bombana in HK. |
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Quantities of the 2018 harvest are abundant, as we all know, whereas quality will only be able to be assessed in a few months’ time. Meanwhile, producers in some of the main Italian wine areas are showing guarded optimism for a year that looks good, and in some cases could be actually even great. Primo Franco of the Nino Franco winery, one of the Prosecco DOCG brands, spoke of a “nerve-racking, but satisfying harvest”, and Silvano Brescianini, of Barone Pizzini in Franciacorta said, “The data analyzed up to now is ideal”. Paolo Endrici, of Endrizzi winery, in the heart of Trentino and Trentodoc, added, “quality seems excellent; there is an excellent balance”, while Franco Allegrini, at the head of the famous Allegrini in Valpolicella, commented, “the harvest had ideal climatic conditions”. Further, in Veneto for Soave, Andrea Lonardi, production manager of Bertani Domains, said the vintage is “delivering vertical wines, that are pleasant and immediate”, whereas Gianni Venica, of the Venica & Venica winery in Friuli, said he is pleased and though the year was “warm, there was stability in the vineyards”. In the Langhe, Pio Boffa, Patron of the historic Pio Cesare, talked about the quality, “elegant wines ready for the challenge of time”, while Emilia Nardi of Tenute Silvio Nardi, one of the top for Brunello di Montalcino, said, “the first wines have beautiful colors and interesting acid freshness” . Renzo Cotarella, CEO of Antinori in Chianti Classico commented, it is “not the harvest of the century, but it is certainly a good harvest”, while in Bolgheri, Carlo Paoli, director of Tenuta San Guido, explained that the “musts in the cellars have much less alcohol content than in 2017 and are beautifully fruity”. Marco Caprai, the wine producer who relaunched Sagrantino di Montefalco in the world, said “it was a regular harvest and vineyards were well balanced”, whereas the comment of Michele Bernetti of Umani Ronchi in the Marche was positive, “Verdicchio is well balanced and the reds are elegant”. Piero Mastroberardino in Irpinia said, “grapes are healthy and wines suitable for aging”, while from the slopes of Etna, Francesco Cambria, of Cottanera winery, said "whites are promising, reds elegant and not very concentrated”. |
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China is the future destination for wine exports, followed by Japan, Hong Kong, Scandinavian countries, the USA and Canada, according to the protagonists of the international wine industry (2.400 producers, exporters, importers, retailers, convinced, in 82% of cases, that the wine trade will continue to grow), as emerges from the ProWein Business Report 2018 signed by the Institute of Wine and Beverage Business Research of Geisenheim University, and presented in Shanghai on the eve of the Chinese stage of the wine fair in Düsseldorf. The main factor driving China up from the position no. 9 of 2017 to the first of tomorrow will be the growing demand for imports, with significant increases in both volume and value, especially from Australia, France, and Chile. |
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After having agreed with the guides of the “Belpaese”, Sassicaia 2015, the legendary wine of Tenuta San Guido, the Bolgheri brand of the Incisa della Rocchetta family, born in the 1968 harvest thanks to Giacomo Tachis, conquers the first place of the “Top 100” 2018 of the Usa Wine Spectator magazine. However, if Italy also places the Chianti Classico Riserva 2015 of Castello di Volpaia (n. 3) and the Etna San Lorenzo 2016 of Tenuta Delle Terre Nere di Marco de Grazia (n. 9) in the top ten places, this is the first time for Sassicaia: only in 1991, with the 1988 vintage, managed to enter in the top 10 (n. 5).
For the Belpaese it is the fourth on the top step, after the Brunello di Montalcino 2001 Tenuta Nuova di Casanova di Neri in 2006, Ornellaia 1998 of Tenuta dell'Ornellaia in 2001 and Solaia 1997 in 2000. "We did not expect it - Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta comments to WineNews - but it is the first time that it fills our heart with joy.
I am not sure, if it can be defined as the greatest wine of Italy, let the others decide, but it is certainly one of the greatest oenological expressions of the country. Fifty years after the first bottled vintage, we have to say that it is no longer an innovation, but that it represents the tradition of Italian wine”. |
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It seems that the rumors were right about investment interests from Italy, USA and China, and one of the top Italian wine groups, Zonin 1821, will be closing a deal and opening its capital. The latest rumors have it that 21 Investimenti will be partnering as a minority shareholder with a dedicated capital increase (around 60 million euros for 40% of the new shareholder structure). The fund is headed by Alessandro Benetton (who, in the past, also invested in Farnese Wines, ed.). |
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The numbers from the market indicate there are obstacles, but the passion of American consumers for great Italian wine is stronger than ever. This was the powerful and clear message in New York on the stage of “Matter of Taste”, the traveling event celebrating the 40th anniversary of the foundation of Robert Parker’s “The Wine Advocate”. Robert Parker is the one who changed wine criticism forever, and has also put Italy in the front seat. Robert Parker was also celebrating his own success, and at the dinner “Bring your own bottles”, held at the Del Posto Restaurant in New York, “brought and shared a double magnum of Barolo Bussia 1989 by Poderi Aldo Conterno from his private cellar”, Monica Larner, correspondent in Italy for “The Wine Advocate”, told WineNews. |
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“Our wealth of late native vines, especially red grapes, will allow us to deal with climate change, so much that it has become an opportunity”, words of Luigi Moio, professor of oenology at the University of Naples, at the Merano Wine Festival on the occasion of the roundtable dedicated to the future of wine in relation to climate change. “We have numerous historical vines that over the years have adapted perfectly to the various soils and climatic conditions very different”. |
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