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WineNews
Issue 618 - February 27th - March 3rd 2023 - Expressly created for 4.455 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world
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News
Fivi is 15 years old
“Let’s cultivate our independence today as we did 15 years ago. We have entered the control room, with responsibility, consistency and integrity”. Thus Lorenzo Cesconi, president of the Italian Federation of Independent Winemakers, who at the Slow Wine Fair at BolognaFiere celebrated the first 15 years of activity of the association that represents so many small Italian producers. With wishes from, among others, the Minister of Agriculture, Francesco Lollobrigida, and Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini, who described the birth of Fivi as the association’s “far-sighted intuition to focus attention on the work of the winegrower”.
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The wine of the future? Good, clean, and fair: the “Slow Wine Fair” 2023 message
“The wine of the future will be the one outlined by the Slow Wine Coalition because viticulture must take the path we are blazing. Wine is a driving part of the Italian agricultural and productive sectors, and if we can have a positive impact on the production system, wine can become an ambassador of a different system, respectful of the environment, capable of protecting biodiversity, and caring for soil fertility: in this way, all food will go in that direction. The Slow Wine Fair is a visual representation of the Slow Wine Coalition’s journey towards a future of good, clean, and fair wine and food”. To WineNews, Barbara Nappini, president of Slow Food Italy, at the inauguration of the Slow Wine Fair 2023, an event organized by BolognaFiere under the artistic direction of Slow Food that brings together 750 good wine producers, clean and sustainable, from all over Italy and from 21 countries. “Politics must be able to give the way to the right decisions; we move globally in three directions: biodiversity protection, education, and influence on political decisions. We act as spokespersons for wine producers’ and supply chain protagonists' insights and honest reflections in order to put pressure on political decisions capable of providing concrete and correct answers for a good, clean, and fair wine system. Slow Food”, Nappini added, “has always advocated for consuming less but doing it better, the consumer is a co-producer: when I drink wine, I support a type of supply chain, and this is a cultural as well as a political and economic choice”. “The presence of exhibitors and visitors at the Slow Wine Fair demonstrates how important trade fairs are for the agri-food sector, even in 2023. If producers follow us there is room for interesting initiatives. With the Slow Wine Fair, the Mercato de Vini dei Vignaioli Indipendenti, not forgetting Sana and Marca, our fair, which makes 30% of its turnover with foreign countries, is already a leading hub for made-in-Italy agribusiness, and is ready to play an increasingly international role for wine & food”, said BolognaFiere President Giampiero Calzolari.
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The “Slow Wine Coalition” watchwords
Bureaucracy, communication, packaging, territories, synthetic herbicides, labels, new generations, biodiversity, sustainability, education, research. These are the watchwords by the “Slow Wine Coalition”, the international network (coordinated by Giancarlo Gariglio) that unites the protagonists of the wine world - winemakers, wine lovers and professionals in the supply chain - from 37 countries around the world, gathered at the “Slow Wine Fair”. A good way, three years after the launch of the “Manifesto” for good, clean and fair wine, to understand how far the work of connecting and building an international community that aims to change the agricultural system, combining environmental sustainability, defense of the landscape and the cultural and social growth of the inhabitants of the lands dedicated to the cultivation of the vine has come.
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The future of Italian wine for Cristina Mariani-May
Working with passion and courage, always listening and comparing oneself with others, giving value to merits, and acquiring great professional and international experience in order to have an entrepreneurial vision always turned to the future. This is the vision recounted, “face to face” with WineNews, by Cristina MarianiMay, among the most influential businesswomen in Italy and in the U.S., owner and now head of Banfi, the family business, leader of Brunello di Montalcino, talking about the future of a territory-symbol of Made in Italy in the world that becomes that of Italian wine. And with whom we touched on many topics, from new investments, also in other territories, to tourism, from research on vineyards and crus to territorial “governance”, starting precisely from Montalcino, which, despite its prestige, cannot slacken off, but which today has “a more open mentality than in the past, thanks also to the new generations, which allows us to be present in the most explosive markets” provided that we “work together, from small to large companies, old and new owners, to increase the value of our wines”. Markets such as the U.S., of course, which Banfi knows well, having paved the way there for Italian wines, and in which “the love for Italy is always stronger”.
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Emilia Romagna and resistant vines
First on the great international vines, then on the native ones such as Bombino bianco, Malvasia di Candia aromatica, Trebbiano Modenese, various varieties of Lambrusco and more: the project on resistant vines moves forward quickly - on which for many the future of wine is at stake, looking above all at climate change - implemented in Emilia Romagna by the Vitires Consortium, which associates four big cooperatives (Cantine Riunite & Civ, Cantina Sociale di San Martino in Rio, Caviro, Terre Cevico), together with the Ri.Nova research center (in more detail)
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Values up, with less quantity: large territories (including Montalcino) are no exception 
Somewhat driven by the success and blazon of the products, some by the lower availability of product, some driven by inflation, the values of Italian wine turnover, in 2022, have grown. At least at export, which, pending the official Istat data on the 12 months, is expected to touch 8 billion euros, and certainly for some of the most emblazoned territories, as recounted for many of the white wine territories, and for the great reds, such as Amarone della Valpolicella, Barolo and Chianti Classico, as emerged from the respective “Previews”, in recent days. And Brunello di Montalcino is no exception. Which, despite 14% less wine placed on the market (data from Avito), sees for the Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino a budget at +18% in value in 2022 (over 2021). At least, from the data collected by the “Price Observatory”, on a panel representing 28% of the Docg’s production capacity.
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For the record
South Korea, wine imports soar 
The South Korean market represents an increasingly important landing place for Italian wine in the Far East. Out of $565 million in total wine imports to the country in 2022 (+324% over 2011, the year of the free trade agreement with the EU), 86 were made in Italy wine, 15% of the total. According to the Uiv-Vinitaly Observatory, the most exported type of Italian wine is red wines, ahead of whites, and sparkling wines. Data came at the end of the Seoul stage, which closed the roadshow by Vinitaly.
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