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Issue 416 - April 15th-19th - Expressly created for 11.897 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world |
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There is no doubt that the role of chefs as opinion leaders and reference models, has grown over the years. Now, to “certify” it, the famous “The 100 Most Influential People of 2019” of the historical American weekly “Time”, every year lists the most influential people in the world. The Italian Massimo Bottura is the number one chef in the world who, at his three Michelin starred restaurant, Osteria Francescana of Modena, has brought contemporary Italian cuisine to global notoriety. His projects “Food For Soul” and the “Refettori” in Milan, San Paulo in Brazil, London, Paris and more, together with a host of other great Italian chefs”. |
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One swallow does not make spring, but if well begun is half done, and a good beginning bodes well, to remain on the subject of proverbs, Italian wine can look with confidence to 2019 in the markets of the world. Because in the first month of the year, exports of Belpaese exceeded 438 million euros (of which 287 of still wines and 151 of sparkling wines, compared to 406 of the same period in 2018 (271 of still wines and 135 of sparkling wines). With a growth of 7.9%, according to the most updated data on the subject of Istat, analyzed by WineNews. A figure that must be taken for what it is, given that it relates to just one month (and that sees steady growth of wines, + 5.9%, and sparkling wines, + 19.1% ed.), but that is anyway a positive and encouraging sign for Italian producers, who have to deal with the threat of a war of duties between the US and the EU which, according to reports and official documents, could also involve wine, until now “save” from tax skirmishes between America and Europe, an impossible Brexit, to be deciphered, free trade agreements like the Ceta with Canada and the Jefta with Japan that still have to show their real effects, and an East, China at the head, which remains a great promise, still difficult to grasp. This is the result of overall growth in many of the most important markets for Italian wine, with the most significant increase, in absolute terms, recorded by the United Kingdom. And so, looking at the aggregate data, in value Italian wine exports grew in the USA, from 103 to 109 million euros (+5.9%), in Germany, from 72 to 74.8 million euros (+3.9%), and in the UK, with an increase of 10 million euros net, from 41 in January 2019 to 51 in 2019 (+24.4%), but there is also a growth in Switzerland, France, Russia, Japan and China. Among the most important markets, the only one with a negative balance is Canada, which had imported 26.5 million euros in January 2018, compared to 23.7 in 2019. According to the Cia-Agricoltori Italiani Study Office, in the first two months of 2019, exports rose by 6.6% on a trend basis to 6.7 billion euros (with two particularly significant increases: +17% in the USA and +10% in the UK). |
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For a company, seeing its turnover grow by more than 50% in less than 10 years, and employment levels by more than 100%, is a real business. Apparently, it has succeeded in the great “widespread company” of Italian wine, or at least to the companies that produce wine and grapes, which according to the Observatory Qualivita Wine and Infocamere, have put on the balance, in total, 11.2 billion euros in 2018, up 7% over 2017, and 52% over 2009, with a growth of employees of +123%, to 34,000 people. Data related to the more than 3,000 companies (+33% in 10 years) that in 2018 filed their accounts with the Register of Companies of the Chambers of Commerce. The added value is also growing, reaching 2 billion euros (+59%). |
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For Masseto, the iconic wine of Italy in the world, a new page of history starts, already great. Dug into the depths of the ancient blue clay on which the vineyard stands, the new cellar of the great Bolgheri red wine has officially opened its doors (which will not, however, be opened to the public, ed.), “a “physical” and symbolic tribute to the history and rapid evolution of the estate, from the intuition of the hidden potential of a particular vineyard to the affirmation of a wine of international renown”, signed by the study ZitoMori. A winery that “pays tribute to the past, present, and future of Masseto, celebrating the incredible story of a wine produced almost by chance,” said the CEO of Masseto, Giovanni Geddes da Filicaja. In the underground building, which recalls the sacred temples of antiquity, the technological impact has been reduced. “Here nothing lacks or exceeds the necessary, “said Axel Heinz, director of Masseto, stressing that the winemaking style of the estate, a combination of austerity, modernity, and tradition, will remain rigorously unchanged. “Making wine means for us limiting processes, reducing procedures, in line with the philosophy “less is more””.
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Three magnums of Sassicaia 1985 for 13,000 euros, 6 bottles of Masseto 2004 at 4,850, 12 bottles of Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1961 of Biondi Santi at 4,400: these are the “top lots” of “The Italian Sale”, auction of Gelardini & Romani Wine Auction, in Hong Kong, which has received half a million euros. “This figure may seem small, but for an auction of only Italian wines it is a record”, comments the auction house. With a growing interest also in wines often out of the spotlight, in oenological enchantments: the 1968 Taurasi Riserva by Mastroberardino, +500%, and the 1998 Turriga by Argiolas, +218%). |
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The passion for Fine Wines and their value as an alternative investment, knows no crisis. As a matter of fact, record after record is being broken. Liv-ex is the reference platform for the secondary market, as always, registers them and just a few days ago registered the top record ever of “live offers” on its exchanges: 30 million pounds. With Italy among the protagonists: the Italy 100 index, which is currently formed by the most recent vintages of Sassicaia, Masseto, Solaia, Tignanello, Ornellaia, Barbaresco by Gaja, Barolo Monfortino Riserva and Barolo Cascina Francia by Giacomo Conterno, Guado al Tasso by Antinori and Redigaffi by Tua Rita, has grown 1.3% in the last 3 months, the best performance of the Liv-Ex indices. |
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Wine, spirits, fresh and frozen fish, cheese, fruit and vegetables, tractors, bags, video games and so on: the preliminary list of products made in the U.S. published by the EU Commission is very long, the subject of possible recourse (for 20 billion dollars) to the duties threatened by the United States on as many European products (for 11 billion dollars) in recent days. Now, in Europe, public consultation is opening, which will last until May 31, when the list will be definitive. But it will still be the World Trade Organisation that will have the last word on the matter. |
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