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Issue 403 - January 12th - January 18th - Expressly created for 31.087 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world |
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After the first semester of double-figure growth, and the last quarter of “deep red”, the import of Chinese wine closes 2018 in negative territory, marking an unexpected slowdown. Italy, according to Chinese customs data published by China Customs and analysed by the Beijing Ice, shows a fall of -3.53%, for an equivalent value of 155.67 million dollars, a significant drop, especially if you consider that in the first six months of the year the wine country had grown by +25.45%, scoring the second-best result behind Australia (+39.68%), which is in decline as Italy (-3.51%). As well as Spain -20.13%) and France (-8.75). Chile close 2018 in growth, +4.5%. |
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The prices of Italian vineyards are growing, a trend that has been going on for some years now, confirmed by the WineNews survey, which has collected the opinions of entrepreneurs, brokers and consultants, in order to draw up estimates that, obviously, must be considered, excluding many factors that affect the real value of the hectares, at the time of the actual negotiations (exposure, age and state of the vineyards, whether or not they are in subareas and historicized cru, the presence of real estate, the proximity of land already owned by the buyer and so on). The absolute top is Barolo, at 1.2 million euros per hectare (with peaks of 2.5 million euros in the most important crus). The same dynamics followed by Barbaresco, with prices, however, well below, around 600,000 euros per hectare. Another territory with stellar quotations is that of Brunello di Montalcino (+4.500% in 50 years), where the values range between 750,000 and 900,000 euros per hectare, with peaks of almost a million in the top vineyards. In Valpolicella, in the classic zone, there are between 450,000 and 550,000, with peaks of up to 600,000 euros. Still, we start from 500,000 euros per hectare in Alto Adige, a territory of excellence especially for the production of white wine, where it reaches 1 million in the most important microzones, while we go from 400,000 to 500,000 euros per hectare in Bolgheri, one of the areas that has grown most in recent years. The growth of Prosecco is even faster: if in the DOCG it goes from 400,000 to 450,000 euros per hectare, with peaks of over 1 million euros on the hill of Cartizze, in the much larger DOC Prosecco the value of one hectare around 200,000 euros. In Franciacorta, estimates are 250,000 euros per hectare (300,000 for the finest vineyards). Quotes similar to those of Lugana, historical territory that rose to the limelight only recently, which saw the values of their vineyards reach 250,000 euros per hectare. It is about 170,000 euros for a vineyard registered in Chianti Classico, one of the most beautiful areas of Italian wine, where the best vineyards and sub-areas reach 200,000 euros, between 120,000 and 150,000 euros per hectare in the vineyards of Nobile di Montepulciano, and over 90,000 in Chianti. |
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It will not be the record of 2011 when the world wine auctions reached the figure of 478 million dollars (estimate of Wine Spectator), but 2018, according to the survey of WineNews among the balance sheets of the most important international companies, it was very close. With a turnover of around 467 million dollars (pending the final data of Zachys, who turned in mid-2018 to 34.6 million dollars, up on 2017, when they eventually reached almost 80 million dollars), with an impressive growth of more than 22% over 2017, closed at 381 million dollars. Acker Merrall & Condid has played the lion’s share in a record-breaking year, with a total of 105 million dollars, Then, the wine division of one of the most important names in the world of auctions, Sothebyʼs, which, for the first time, has exceeded 100 million dollars in wine & spirits sales. |
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If the perfect wine does not exist, on “Wine Lister” the labels of Belpaese get closer and closer. Led by Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Monfortino Riserva (972 points of the portal score, among quality, reputation and economic performance), followed on the podium by the Barolo Rocche Falletto Riserva by Bruno Giacosa (957) and by Barolo Cascina Francia by Giacomo Conterno ( 955). Then the two protagonists of the international auctions, Masseto (950) and Sassicaia (947), followed, on a par with the Solaia di Antinori and Barolo di Bartolo Mascarello (644), then l’Ornellaia (943), Le Pergole Torte di Montevertine (940) and Sangiovese di Case Basse - Soldera (938), to close the top ten. Scrolling through the ranking, Barolo Brunate Le Coste by Giuseppe Rinaldi (936), Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo of Gaja (932), Tignanello (930), Barbaresco di Gaja (912), Barbaresco Asili Riserva di Bruno Giacosa (908) and Barbaresco Asili di Bruno Giacosa (862). And again, Barolo Villero Reserve of Vietti (848), Bolgheri Messorio de Le Macchiole (841), Barolo di Bruno Giacosa (836) and Brunello di Montalcino di Fuligni (792). Finally, Bolgheri Paleo Rosso de Le Macchiole (780), Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia (741), Barbera d'Alba Cascina Francia by Giacomo Conterno (740), Barbaresco Paje di Roagna (728) and Barolo Albe by G. D. Vajra (670). |
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The Greppo-Biondi Santi Estate in Montalcino, where in the nineteenth century the Biondi Santi family invented Brunello, now owned by the Epi group of the French Descours family: here is the only Italian among the “Great Wineries to visit in 2019” for Decanter, together with Te Mata Estate in New Zealand, Penfolds in Australia, Château Mouton Rothschild in Bordeaux, Ruinart in Champagne, Joseph Phelps and Ashes and Diamonds in Napa, Casal de Armán in Galicia, Matetic Vineyards in Chile and Ken Forrester Vineyards in South Africa. |
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Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana, Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli, Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry, Heston Blumenthal's The Fat Duck, René Redzepi’s Noma, Roca’s El Celler de Can Roca and Daniel’s Eleven Madison Park Humm: are the winners of the past editions of “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants”, the “Best of the Best” which, since the 2019 edition (for the first time in Asia, in Singapore), will no longer run for the award of best restaurant in the world. Also redefined the criteria for the composition of the Academy, in a real “Manifesto”: 1,000 judges, from all over the world, with an absolute balance between genders, divided between chefs and restaurateurs, food writers and globetrotters, who will have to line up their ten favorite restaurants, visited in the last 18 months, without any restriction or obligation on the type of place. |
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The No. 1 Italian Wine Fair, Vinitaly is increasingly looking at the niches and many specialisations that revolve around the Bacchus world. Thus, the 2019 news (7-10 April, Verona), already “sold out” despite an increase in the expo, explains VeronaFiere, concern organic, collecting and design, but not only. The Organic Hall has been created, which will host Vinitalybio with Federbio and the producers of the Vi.Te Association, and the space dedicated to the collective Fivi will also grow. More attention will be paid the aesthetics of wine, in Vinitaly Design, dedicated to wine accessories. |
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