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Issue 637 - July 10th - 14th 2023 - Expressly created for 4.552 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world |
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The eWibe Fine Wines index - which includes the main investment labels of the most representative countries - recorded +1.7% in the first half of 2023, with Italy continuing to lead the sector, thanks to a +3.3% growth, dragged by the wines of Tuscany (+3.3%) and Piedmont (+2.6%). According to the eWibe Observatory, the labels that have increased their value most on the market are Ferrari’s Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore 2009 (+54.7%), Le Pergole Torte 2012 (+29.1%) and Tignanello 2020 (+26.9%), while Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia 2020 has catalyzed the most interest on the platform. |
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More than 37 billion bottles of wine are consumed worldwide annually, of which more than half are uncorked in eight countries: the United States (14%), followed by France (10%), Italy and Germany (7%), then China (6%) and the United Kingdom (5%), Canada (2%) and Japan (1%). Epicenter areas of global consumption that, over the past two decades (1999-2019), have seen wine demand increase by 27%, a race destined, however, to draw breath in the next two decades. Compounded by the gradual rise in the average age and the concomitant worrying distance from wine on the part of the younger generations, the consumption rate is expected to increase by just 7%, with an average annual growth rate of 0.35%. A far from serene scenario, the one drawn by the Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv) Observatory, at an assembly in Rome in recent days, with an outlook based on historical curves of global consumption trends and demographic forecasts from now until 2039. Italy, in this context, is even more exposed to the slowdown in demand in the 8 top buyers, which, for Italian wine, is worth almost 2/3 of total exports. According to the Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv) Observatory, exports will increasingly be the key market discriminator, as domestic consumption is set to fall, and not by a small amount (-1.2 million hectoliters) during the period under consideration. From abroad, the increase will still be timid (+1.8 million hectoliters, to nearly 23 million hectoliters in 2039) but will be able to make up for the shortfall generated by the domestic market, with a positive balance - far from the boom years - of just over half a million hectoliters. This is all net of recurrences of the economic crisis, the health wave and other exogenous factors such as ethnic and religious factors. The study, in particular (in more detail), analyzes trends based on the gradual aging of consumers: in the 1990/99 decade, consumption over 65 and young people under 25 were in perfect parity, at around 18%, but the real involution is expected in the decade that will close in 2039, when the first cluster of older age group - which will be increasingly “core-consumer” - will account for 30% of volumes, with the second dropping to 13% ... |
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Wines aged in the sea, so-called UnderWaterWines, are experiencing their golden hour: a phenomenon with strong marketing appeal, they are also a project with a solid scientific basis. Strongly believing in them is Jamin Under Water Wines, in Portofino, the first Italian company to have invested in underwater wines (with the first patent in the world), which is now moving to phase 2.0: not only with the entry of important financiers and the appointment of Antonello Maietta (for 12 years president of the Italian Sommelier Association) as the new chairman of the board of directors, but above all with the acquisition of the status of an underwater engineering benefit company to age wines on behalf of third parties. Jamin thus has become the leader of a network that other similar entities in Italy have already joined.
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Catena Zapata, in Argentina, is the best winery in the world, while Ceretto, an icon of the Langhe, with its “Acino” on the vineyards and beyond, is the most beautiful in Italy. This is the verdict of the “World’s Best Vineyards 2023”, which thus sees the famous Argentine winery join in the “Hall of Fame” (and for that matter out of the race) the monumental Antinori winery in Chianti Classico, at No. 1 in 2022, and Zuccardi Valle de Uco, again from Argentina (at the top for three consecutive years, from 2019 to 2021, in a period, however, conditioned by the Covid period, and with a less dynamic list, ed.) And if completing the 2023 podium are two other wineries of enormous appeal such as Bodegas de los Herederos del Marqués de Riscal in Rioja, Spain, and Vik, from the Cachpoal Valley, Chile, Ceretto, led by one of the families that have most marked the recent history of Langhe wine and food, with wine, but also with hazelnut groves and with haute cuisine, with Alba’s Piazza Duomo, three Michelin stars, along with chef Enrico Crippa, and the underlying trattoria La Piola, is in this edition the only Italian entity in the “Top 50”, at no. 29, accompanied in the top 100 by such wineries as Villa Sandi, Tenuta San Leonardo, Donnafugata, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Castello Banfi and Ferrari Trento. |
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If the renaissance of the wine of Sicily was led by great men, above all Diego Planeta, Giacomo Rallo and Lucio Tasca d’Almerita, now the future of an island that has invested in quality, wine tourism, sustainability and authenticity will be an all-female triumvirate. Because at the head of Assovini Sicilia, which brings together Sicily’s most virtuous wineries, Mariangela Cambria (Cottanera) has been elected, with Lilly Ferro (Casa Vinicola Fazio) as vice-president, and Josè Rallo (Donnafugata), as councilor delegated to coordinate subsidized finance activities. |
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Delayed, as has been the case for years, and as Micaela Pallini, at the head of Federvini, pointed out, but at last the operational announcement to allocate the funds of the Wine CMO promotion - 30 million euros in the hands of the Ministry of Agriculture, 70 million euros to the Regions, for a total of 100 million annually in the period 2023-2027 - is on its way. “On July 21”, as Agriculture Minister Francesco Lollobrigida said, stressing the existence of “farraginous mechanisms that we wanted to fix, because the government is solely responsible to Europe on the management of the funds. For this reason, if not on how projects are selected, at least on the controls we had to find a square and avoid problems and dispersion of resources. We will make sure that Agea by October will be able to make all payments”. |
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The United States is confirmed as the most important world market for Prosecco: in 2022 it imported 134 million bottles, registering a +6.3% increase over the previous year, with a share worth 24.3% of the entire volume exported. But the U.S. still has great potential, and the Prosecco Doc Consortium is ready to start with “National Prosecco Week”, edition No. 6, which, from July 17 to 23, will involve 30 American states through promotion and communication campaigns. “A good opportunity to present our wines, our territory and our culture”, explains Stefano Zanette, president Prosecco Doc. |
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