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WineNews
Issue 580 - June 6th - 10th 2022 - Expressly created for 4.366 wine lovers,
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News
“Barolo en Primeur” 2022
A wine that does not exist yet, produced from a 4-hectare vineyard which, in the opposite, existed already in the mid-nineteenth century, sold en primeur, at auction, for charity. Here is “Barolo en Primeur” 2022, the charity auction (which raised 660,000 euros in 2021) promoted by  Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Cuneo and the Barolo Consortium which, on 28 October, from the Castle of Grinzane Cavour, and in connection with New York, will bring under the hammer of Christie’s the 15 barrels of Barolo 2021 produced from the grapes of Vigna Gustava (with the direction of the Enosis Meraviglia Laboratory of Donato Lanati ).
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First Page
Wine and Italians in the out-of-home, according to TradeLab
9 out of 10 Italians drink wine outside the home, most associate it with conviviality and cheerfulness and consider it recognized national excellence, as the tale of it at restaurants, which, however, they find less often than they think, and still more than 8 out of 10 say they are convinced of the importance of conscious consumption without excesses. This is the extreme summary of the relationship between wine and consumers in Italy in the out-of-home, signed by TradeLab, carried out with more than 1,000 interviews with a representative sample of the Italian population between 18 and 74 years old, illustrated by Bruna Boroni, Director Industry AwayFrom Home of the research agency, in the Federvini General Assembly. As said, the first positive data is that almost everyone consumes wine outside the home (89%), but with differences. 16% are “adorers”, or those who always consume it at restaurants; 36%, the largest class, are “adopters”, or those who drink it spent outside the home, and for whom wine is a favorite product; 25% are “acceptors”, or people who drink wine occasionally but do not put wine at the top for preferences; and 12% are “available”, or people who drink wine rarely but do not exclude it from their choices. Only 11% say they are “rejectors”, or those who never drink wine. Another interesting aspect is to see what values or words Italians associate wine with. In first place is “conviviality”, indicated as the first choice by 39%, followed by “cheerfulness”, at 33%, and then “Italy”, at 29%. In fourth place, with 24% of the first responses, comes “food”, further evidence of the prevailing Mediterranean model that sees wine consumed with meals. Another very comforting aspect is that conscious consumption prevails, by a clear margin. 52% of Italians say they never overdo alcohol, 23% admit that it has happened 1 or 2 times at most in their lives, and 17% confess to indulging in an extra glass sometimes, but only if they do not have to drive. The most important reasons for avoiding abuse, and aiming for moderate consumption, are concern for health (41%, especially among young people), awareness that exaggerating is dangerous if you have to drive (31%), but also fear of impaired behavior (16%). 
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Brunello di Montalcino runs on the market
Brunello di Montalcino has triumphed over the Pandemic crisis with record numbers and is continuing to grow, in the first four months of 2022, according to Valoritalia data analyzed by the Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino. In summary, there are only 536,000 bottles left of the 2016 Riserva, 5% of the total produced, and the 2017 vintage is already on the market for 60% of production. “With more than 2 million fewer bottles”, said Consortium President Fabrizio Bindocci, who was officially reconfirmed in office for the next three years, “it is becoming difficult for many producers to meet market demands. But for an appellation like ours, which continues to make further progress in terms of value as well as average price, it can be an opportunity to direct the offer towards a higher positioning”.
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Italian wine in large-scale retail and export, in 2022
After the record of 7 billion in 2021, Italian wine exports continue to grow, but not everywhere. While there is a noticeable decline in the large-scale distribution channel, which had been growing at a very high rate, between lockdown and pandemic (but consumption outside the home is growing again). This is the picture drawn by the Federvini Observatory, with Nomisma data, presented at the Federvini general assembly. In detail, wine sales in large-scale distribution, including discount stores, drop by -9.6% in value in the first four months of 2022 over 2021, stopping at 894 million euros. In contrast, exports, overall, are growing: the summary of the first three months of 2022 in the main markets speaks of an estimated +12% to +15% in value over 2021. But if 89% of Italians drank wine in the last 12 months, the forecast for the coming months is not optimal. Overall, if 73% of consumers will not change consumption habits, the balance between those who expect to increase or decrease consumption is 19% in favor of those who foresee a reduction, especially in the out of home, where the summary figure is -37%. A prediction mainly related to lower spending capacity (30% of responses) and going less to restaurants or bars (26% of responses).
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A toast to wish peace, with 1945
A journey through old vintages of Brunello di Montalcino from the Franceschi Family’s historic winery Il Poggione, an icon of longevity, with an exceptionally emotional toast: the 1945 vintage, harvested with a light and joyful heart for the end of World War II. An emotional toast, shared with Monica Larner, Italian Editor “Robert Parker Wine Advocate” (in a video, on Instagram, in more detail), that we would like to imagine as a good omen for a new, quick peace in these complicated times.
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Vineyards: in 5 years (2015-2020), Italy has grown by 5.2%
Italian producers, in 2022, have 6,964 hectares of land throughout Italy available to grow their vineyard, that is, 1% of the total, as required by European regulations on authorizations. A system that Italy has made the best use of, compared to other European competitors, according to EU Commission data, between 2015 and 2020, the Italian vineyard grew by 5.25% to 671,139 hectares. On the other hand, Spain, which has the largest vineyard area in Europe, at 944,478 hectares, lost -1.48% in 5 years, and France, second in area, at 813,505 hectares, grew by just 0.96%.
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For the record
Ancelotti, the fourth Champions and Masseto
Carlo Ancelotti has never made a secret of celebrating his victories by uncorking a good bottle of wine. As he surely must have done a few days ago, returning from Paris with his fourth Champions League brought home as a coach, at the helm of Real Madrid, making him the winningest coach in the history of soccer. Among his favorite wines are Masseto and Ornellaia, the qualitative top of the Frescobaldi Family’s production, which Carlo shared in his Chelsea days with Sir Alex Ferguson, another wine lover on the bench.
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