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Issue 632 - June 5th - 9th 2023 - Expressly created for 4.535 wine lovers,
professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world |
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Italy is a leading country in technology and machinery for viticulture and oenology. A sector with 2 billion euros of turnover per year, according to the Uiv-Vinitaly Wine Observatory, with 900 million euros of exports in 2022, and a trade balance of 580 million euros. And after last year’s -8% drop on 2021, the race is back on in the first two months 2023, at +38% on 2022. The best of all this technology staged at “Enovitis in campo” 2023, by Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv), in recent days, among the rows of the Azienda Agricola Erian - Cantina Bottenago, in Polpenazze del Garda (Brescia). |
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The Irish health warnings that will be in force from 2026, and which Chile is now also requesting, the packaging directive that talks about reuse and not recycling (an aspect on which Italy excels), the reform of PDO and PGI in Europe, to protect quality productions linked to the territories where Italy, with wine and food, is a world leader: there are many European dossiers on which the Italian wine sector, but also vinegars and spirits, has its eyes wide open, because we are talking about decisive issues for the future of a sector that between wine, vinegars and spirits moves more than 20 billion euros, and represents history and identity of Italy in the world. Messages came from the Federvini assembly, in Rome, opened by the Minister of Agriculture, Francesco Lollobrigida, who recalled how wine is “a driving force for all Made in Italy, because it is a symbol of excellence, of the link with the territory, of that model based on quality and moderate consumption that is under attack by those who want standardized and delocalizable products, to cut production costs and centralize control of the supply chain and value”. A sector that, like all made in Italy, faces so many dossiers, starting with the new wave of “prohibition”, as it has been called, and which sees the introduction of health warnings on alcohol bottles in Ireland as a kind of new milestone. That marks, however, a sharp division between worldviews, as explained by Gregor Zwirn, research associate at the University of Cambridge. Who, summarizing a lot (the analysis in more detail), gave a reading that sees basically Catholic countries with no major experiences of protectionism such as Italy, Spain, Greece and so on preferring an approach to the issue of health linked to education and information targeted at those who consume inordinately, opposed to Protestant-style countries, more inclined to prohibition, where public health is also managed with prohibitions and “simplifications that are not correct, as in the case of Ireland”. Meanwhile, however, Italians remain virtuous: according to Trade Lab, 86% of Italians report very limited (37%) and moderate (49%) alcohol consumption, and in most cases linked to food and conviviality. |
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Italian wine, with its immense variety and richness, has its territories of excellence, wineries and wines that, in their own way, are leaders, and capable more than others of telling the territories, and, consequently, wine Italy, to those who taste them. Selecting the “101 best Italian wines” (in more detail), in its June 2023 issue, is the authoritative German magazine Falstaff, the most followed voice in the Teutonic market. In what, Italy correspondent Otmar Kiem explains to WineNews, “is not a ranking, but a selection of very high quality and interesting wines, which, in our opinion, are the fundamental ones to taste in order to understand the variety and diversity of Italian wine, and the essence of some territories. A list from which many other big names are missing, of course, but capable of building an articulate tale of Italian enology”. |
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In the difficult years of the pandemic, large-scale retail has been the most important economic embankment for the wine sector; today, with an international framework of high tensions related to the war between Russia and Ukraine, but not only, and with important economies in difficulty such as China, Germany the U.K. and partly the U.S. (which, however, continues to grow in double digits, in more detail), and an export that holds but does not grow (-0.3%), at least in the first part of 2023, the most positive and important signal comes from the away-from-home, even in Italy, where consumption continues to grow, after a 2022 already of great recovery. This is the overall picture that emerges from analyses by Wine Monitor Nomisma and Trade Lab for Federvini, an organization that met in Rome in recent days and that, between wine, spirits and vinegars, represents more than 2,600 companies with a total turnover of 20.6 billion euros. The large-scale retail sector is growing again, and in the first three months does +2% in value over 2022, to 670 million euros. Out-of-home did well, where wine made +24% by number of consumptions in 2022 over 2021, with bubbles at +21, for a total out-of-home turnover of 93 billion euros, between food & beverage, expected to grow to almost 100 billion euros in 2023, also thanks to tourism. |
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The future of Abruzzo of wine, a land of wine, sheep farming, beauty and poetry, told by WineNews with the voices of producers and the verses of the great poet Gabriele D’Annunzio, wins “Words of Wine - Parole di vino” 2023, the Consorzio Vini d’Abruzzo’s journalistic award to the best narratives of the territory in the media. With director Alessandro Regoli, founder of WineNews with Irene Chiari in 2000, also awarded Tom Hyland (Forbes), Gianluca Atzeni (Gambero Rosso), Lara Loreti (Il Gusto - Gruppo Gedi) and Lorenzo Frassoldati (Qn). |
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Tenuta di Biserno, which brought together in a wine project the brothers Piero, Lodovico (who is honorary president) and Ilaria Antinori, founded together with partner Umberto Mannoni and now led by Ilaria’s son Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi (photo), with its heart in Bibbona, a stone’s throw from Bolgheri, where world-class wines such as Biserno or Pino di Biserno are born, is still growing, without losing its connotation as a “boutique winery”. With an investment (around 5 million euros, ed.), the estate acquired Villa Caprareccia, “practically bordering Biserno”, Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi explains to WineNews: 30 hectares of land, 15 of which are already planted with vines, as well as significant real estate (in more detail). |
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Banfi, the reference winery of Brunello di Montalcino, celebrates those who, in its first forty years on the market, have married and supported its project from the very beginning: wine shops, restaurants, distributors from all over Italy, who have sold, uncorked and served Banfi’s Brunello di Montalcino. To them is dedicated the “Banfi Brunello Ambassador Club”, which welcomes the first 60 Ambassadors, celebrated in recent days at Castello Banfi (in the coming days, on WineNews, the video with the protagonists). |
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