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Issue 662 - January 2nd - 5th 2024 - Expressly created for 4662 wine lovers, professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world | |
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| | | A treasure called Dop and Igp, a sector that in 2022 touched 9 billion euros in value at origin (+9% annual growth, +33% trend in ten years) for a final consumption turnover exceeding 17 billion euros, according to the study on the “Dop Economy” by Qualivita and Ismea. In the special ranking of districts in the first two positions Grana Padano at the top and Parmigiano Reggiano follows, and, in third position, enters wine with Prosecco Dop that in 2022 broke through the wall of the billion, to which must also be added Conegliano Valdobbiadene - Prosecco Dop for a total value of the “planet” Prosecco that approaches 1.4 billion.
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| | Italy does best of all, in the sense that it limits its losses, but as widely expected, the last month of 2023 does not reverse the negative trend of the fine wines market monitored by the Liv-Ex. For the Liv-Ex 100, the bar stops at -14.1% in the figure updated to December 2023, while the Liv-Ex 1000 says -13.6%, Bordeaux Legends 40 -12.4%, Burgundy 150 -16.2%, and Champagne 50 -18.3%. The Italy 100, the only one to record at least a slightly up December (-0.4%), ends the year at -6%, which given the general trend can be considered a success. With a less negative performance than the others, it must be said, thanks to a few samples. Such as Barolo Monfortino Riserva 2001, which is the Italian wine that revalued the most during the year (+40.1%, touching £12,600 per case of 12 bottles), and the third overall (behind Chateau Climens’ Barsac Premier Cru Classè 2010 (+49.5%,at £598 per case), and Joseph Drouhin's Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet Grand Cru 2018 (+44.7%, at 8. 730 pounds per case), followed, No. 2 Italian and in the overall “top 10”, by Fontodi’s Flaccianello della Pieve 2011 (+28.4%, at 895 pounds per case, while the 2012 vintage made +18.3%, the 2017 +7.6%, and the 2014 +3.8%). Among the Italian wines in the Liv-Ex 100 that grew the most, Gaja’s 2010 Barbaresco is also on the podium (+20.6%, but double-digit growth is also seen in the 2015 vintage, at +18.1%, the 2011, at +13.2% and the 2012, at +12.1%, while the 2019 makes +6.9% and the 2016 +2.7%). On positive ground again is Conterno’s Barolo Monfortino Riserva, with several vintages (2010, 2013, 2005 and 2006) and increases between +6% and +7%. Nor are Antinori’s Solaia, with 2012, 2011 and 2018 vintages, Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia 2016 and Bruno Giacosa’s Barolo Falletto Vigna le Rocche Riserva 2012. Among the curiosities, looking at Liv-Ex data analyzed by WineNews, it emerges that Conterno’s Barolo Monfortino Riserva 2007 is the only Italian wine present, and one of only 6 in the index, to grow, by +6.7%, behind Domaine Jean Louis Chave’s Hermitage Rouge 2019, at +41%. | |
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| | No. 1 overall is Champagne, LaurentPerrier’s Grand Siècle Grande Cuvée No. 26, with Italy represented, in the top 10, by Casanova di Neri’s 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Giovanni Neri (7), and Bruno Giacosa’s 2020 Barbaresco Rabaja di Falletto (9). That is, the first two Italians in the “Top 100 Wines of the World” by James Suckling, among the most followed critics in the world, especially in Asia, where he lives and works. Third Italian is Damilano’s Barolo Cannubi Riserva 1752 2016, No. 20 and No. 1 overall in the “Top 100 Wines of Italy” by the critic who also signs the guide “The 100 Best Wines and Winemakers of Italy” by “Corriere della Sera” with Luciano Ferraro. And in which great protagonists are the Langhe, with 17 wines between Barolo and Barbaresco, and Montalcino, with 13 Brunello, but also 17 Supertuscans.
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| | | Despite a less than brilliant economic picture, the trend of premiumization will continue to consolidate in 2024 in the market, which is strategic in the UK. Always one of the most important in the world, and among the three key markets for Italian wine (along with the U.S. and Germany), which exported wines, across the Channel, for more than 602 million euros in the first 9 months of 2023, up +3.5% on the same period 2022. Moreover, sustainability will be a key factor, increasingly important. And, looking at Italy, eyes will be on territories such as South Tyrol and Piedmont, but going beyond, especially in the latter case, the usual knowns. Without forgetting, more generally, the potential of the various Italian Metodo Classico wines, Franciacorta in the lead. Here are the “10 Wine Trends to Watch in 2024”, according to Bibendum, one of the leading wine & spirits distributors in the Uk market. In the spotlight is Piedmont, but going far beyond the timeless Barolo and Barbaresco. Wines made from varietals such as Barbera, Arneis, Freisa and Grignolino are now on 4 out of 5 wine lists. But the British are also increasingly discovering wines from Alto Adige, especially Pinot Grigio, Teroldego, but also lesser-known varieties such as Kerner and Schiava. | |
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| | | “L’uomo Vinumiano” by Italian Diego Russo, No. 1 in the under-35 section, followed by “Decanter Odette - Il Lago dei Vini” by Italian Mattia De Luca and “Another round!” by Iranian Mojtaba Heidarpanah; “Heart Cure” by Romanian Alexandrescu Aurel Stefa, No. 1 in the over-35 section, followed by “Percorso di Vite” by Italian Sergio Azzini and “Nebbiolo” by Italian Samanta Bartolucci: these are the winners of “Spirito di Vino” 2023, unveiled by the Movimento Turismo del Vino Friuli Venezia Giulia’s historic International Competition. | |
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| | The Asti Docg family, consisting of Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti, is ready to expand. The sparkling wine with a centuries-old history, symbol of the Italian sparkling wine tradition and of “sweet drinking”, will also become rosé: the okay came from the Assembly of the Association of Municipalities of Moscato, with the top management of the Consortium of Asti and Moscato d’Asti Docg. Rosé that should be born from the union between Moscato and Brachetto grapes, aromatic wines of the territory, opening a new production channel and potentially widening the audience of consumers. | |
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| | One of the largest works of land art in the world, a symbol of the rebirth of the Belìce Valley from the 1968 earthquake, Burri’s “Cretto” in Gibellina is also dedicated a wine thanks to Tenute Orestiadi. A bond that between the Sicilian city and contemporary art is still being strengthened thanks to Tenute with Opificio Gibellina, a project that transforms five bottles of limited-edition Sicilia Doc Riserva red wines, whose grapes are grown near the Cretto, into works of art signed by artists from the Brera Academy.
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