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Issue 497 - November 2nd - 6th 2020 - Expressly created for 11.897 wine lovers, professionals and opinion leaders from all over the world |
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The passion of Americans for great Italian wines, fortunately, does not fade with Covid. And the cover dedicated to Italy, in October 2020, by “Wine Spectator”, the most widespread and important magazine in the world of wine, is a positive sign. “Italy Decanted - Classic wines & Great values”, the cover title of the magazine, the second cover of 2020 dedicated to Italy (after the “traditional” one in April, “The Magic of Italy”), with the great vertical of the 39 vintages of Tignanello, one of the most important wines of Marchesi Antinori and Italy, and on “Veneto to discover” (with Lugana, Breganze and Colli Berici, and wineries such as Zenato, Tommasi, Maculan, Inama). |
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Difficult, almost impossible, today more than ever, to unbalance oneself in estimates and market forecasts, even in the world of wine. But even in a complex and unprecedented picture, trends emerge up to now, and sentiments are quite outlined. Because if the sector as a whole suffers, but does not collapse, there are differences, and even important ones. For companies very oriented towards large-scale distribution, for example, with wines that focus strongly on the relationship between quality and price, 2020 has so far been a year of growth, even important, with peaks around +10% of turnover, at least until October. On the contrary, for those focused mainly on food service and out-of-home shopping, it reaches even -30%. For the very few who, on the other hand, are the privileged target of collectors in the world, there are still sales that are far from falling, and even higher prices than in the past. Just as well, and in line with 2019, those who have been investing and building a mix for years, both in terms of product, in different price ranges, and in terms of channels, from catering to large-scale distribution, without neglecting online, and in terms of markets, with a widespread presence in many countries around the world (with exports that have held their own in the most important markets, the USA in the lead). It is very difficult to understand what will happen in the coming months, with the end of the year representing 25%-30% of turnover for many wineries. Unbalancing itself in an attempt at synthesis, if December will allow a certain freedom of movement and sociality, with a reopening of the restaurant even in the evening, the picture could improve, and bring the overall annual balance around -10%/-15%, which would be almost like a triumph. Otherwise, if even stricter regulations were to arrive to contain contagions, the loss could be around -25%/-30%. This is the picture that emerges from the WineNews survey which, anonymously and confidentially (and non-scientifically), has gathered the testimonies of over 25 leading Italian wine producers, also very different from each other: small producers focused on catering and collecting, large structured companies able to cover every price range and several distribution channels, and large wine cooperatives more oriented towards modern distribution.
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The main criteria of restaurant owners’ choice of wines, and especially fine wines, for their wine lists is the brand of the “historic” companies that have been operating on the market for the longest time, even during a pandemic (84%). This choice is ahead of the wine guide awards (63%) or even famous denominations (52%). It emerges from the previews of a Nomisma Wine Monitor study for the Istituto Grandi Marchi led by Piero Mastroberardino (which brings together 19 of Italy’s most representative wineries) on the national market (124 participants, during the period September 22- October 23, 2020, 94% of which have been mentioned in at least one of the main sector guides, at an average of 420 wine labels, and 77% of which offer a tasting menu for 65 euros, on average). |
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The wine region of the year? For the quality of wines, history and investments in sustainability, it is the Trentino of Trentodoc and Teroldego, the Piana Rotaliana and the “mountain bubbles” that come from the vineyards that climb the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is the first verdict smiling at Italy that comes from the “Wine Enthusiast’s Wine Star Award” from the popular US magazine (whose Italian editor is Kerin O’Keefe), which underlines the importance for the territory of grape varieties such as Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay, Muller-Thurgau and Nosiola, among white wines, and Teroldego and Marzemino, Pinot Nero and Merlot among red wines, but also the pioneering role, especially for sparkling wine, of personalities such as Giulio Ferrari, patriarch of the Cantine Ferrari, who already, in the early twentieth century, realized the potential of the territory for sparkling wine, and began to cultivate Chardonnay. A territory, moreover, which is among the most advanced in terms of sustainability, underlines the Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe. “For its long history of quality, recent results and commitment to sustainability, Wine Enthusiast is proud to award Trentino as its Wine Region of the Year”, writes the Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe. |
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Even in Covid’s time, the world of wine critics and awards is trying to move forward, even internationally. And, in the German market, among the most important for the wineries of the Belpaese, the prestigious “Meininger Award, Excellence in Wine & Spirits”, signed by the most important German wine & food publishing group, still reward Italy, with Andrea Sartori, at the helm of Casa Vinicola Sartori, one of the most important names of Veneto and Valpolicella wine, nominated “International Wine Entrepreneur of the Year”.
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The combination of great wines, haute cuisine, art and culture to relaunch the image of Italy as a whole, in Asia, starting from Hong Kong, which has always been a privileged showcase of the West for the markets of the East. On stage last November 5, under the direction of Gelardini & Romani Wine Auctions, with great Italian wines, selected by the youngest Master of Wine Sarah Heller, the cuisine of chef Uberto Bombana, to celebrate the Renaissance, in the Everlasting Wonder Gala Dinner, in the Hong Kong Museum of Art with the financial and governmental elite of the city, to present the first collaboration with the Uffizi Museum in Florence, the Italian Consulate and the Chinese Italian Cultural Society led by Michelle Ong Cheung.
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Barolo Bussia Vigna Colonnello Riserva 2014 by Prunotto, Guado al Tasso 2017 by Tenuta Guado al Tasso, Cabernet Poggio alle Nane 2017 by Fattoria le Mortelle, Solaia 2017 and Tignanello 2017 by Marchesi Antinori, Nobile di Montepulciano Santa Pia Riserva 2016 by Fattoria la Braccesca, Muffato della Sala 2016 by Castello della Sala and Bocca di Lupo 2016 by Tormaresca: here the 8 Antinori’s “Quattro Viti”, the best for “Vitae”, the guide of the Italian Sommelier Association, before the Lunelli family (Ferrari), with 5, and Santa Margherita, Allegrini, Gruppo Italiano Vini, Gaja, with 3. |
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